The Sites Homestead, Seneca Rocks, West Virginia

The National Forest Service has done an excellent job in restoring and preserving the historic Jacob Sites Homestead near the base of Seneca Rocks. It is a place of interest for history buffs and for anyone who loves country things.

The Homestead originally consisted of a one room log cabin, built in 1839. William Sites, one of Jacob's two sons, enlarged it into a two story frame home in the 1860s. The building, made completely of locally available materials, shows the fine hand crafted architectural details that are typical of the period. William Sites fought for the Confederacy during the War Between the States, although West Virginia sided primarily with the Union. Sites was captured in 1862 and spent much of the War as a prisoner.

The house was occupied by various Sites' descendents until 1947, then it was used as a hay barn until it was acquired by the National Forest Service in 1969. Beside the main house are outbuildings and a period garden. Reconstruction work was completed in 1990.

Black Fork Falls, West Virginia

Black Fork Falls is a longer hike from the trailhead, but still on the same trail as Marsh Fork Falls. Both falls can be reached by taking a 1 1/4 mile loop hike.

A few portions of the moderate trail are rocky, and the short side trail down to Black Fork Falls is very steep. Like it's twin, Black Fork Falls is about 20 feet high, but it has an entirely different character to it, making a free fall as opposed to the cascade at Marsh Fork.

Also, Black Fork Falls faces west, so is better photographed when the sun is on it in the afternoon.I have been to Black Fork Falls in the dead of winter when it was a frozen column of ice. Both of the twin falls are in the extreme upper reaches of the Mississippi River watershed, so the flow may be only a trickle in dry seasons.

Marsh Fork Falls, West Virginia

Twin Falls Resort State Park, West Virginia

Marsh Fork Falls is the easiest of the two waterfalls in the park to reach. It is accessed by a fairly level paved pathway from a parking area off the main road through the park. However, the views from the path are not as good as those you will get by making a hard steep scramble down to the base of the falls.

Both waterfalls in the park are about 20 feet high, although they are on different streams and facing opposite directions. The Marsh Fork Falls faces east, so is best photographed early in the day when it is in the sun. There is a pool at the base of the falls, and the entire area is heavily decorated with rhododendron and mountain laurel, which bloom from June through early July. It is very pretty any time of year, but water flow is much less during late summer and fall.

Twin Falls Resort State Park, West Virginia

Twin Falls Resort State Park, which opened in July, 1970, is one of the newer state parks of West Virginia, and perhaps one of the least known, because it is well off the beaten path. There are higher mountains and more spectacular waterfalls in West Virginia than those you will find here. Still, this hidden jewel of southern West Virginia is a marvelous place to relax and recreate in a beautiful natural setting, far from the madding crowds. The park gets it's name from two waterfalls which are both about 20 feet tall, and within less than a half mile of each other, but otherwise are not twins at all. Each has it's own unique character, and each is well worth the short hike to visit it.

The forest-clad mountains of the park are lush and green in summer, with hickory, maple tulip popular and many other trees. Winter also carries a remnant of green with evergreen helmlock and pine shading an understory of mountain laurel and rhododendron. The most colorful times to visit are during the spring blossoming season and the brilliant fall foilage of October. Every time of year has it's own rewards. Wildlife is abundant here and includes whitetail deer, turkey, squirrels, hawks, owls, foxes, racoons, coyotes, skunks and rabbits. More civilized attractions include a fine lodge, restaurant and golf course. The park is open year round and there is no admisison charge.

Castle Rock, Pineville, West Virginia

The first time I ever drove into Pineville, in 1972, I thought it was one of the prettiest settings of any town I had ever seen, with lush green mountains, sparkling streams, and this beautiful rock sitting right in the middle of downtown, between the main street and the Guyandotte River.

There is a small park surrounding Castle Rock with a trail that leads up to and and around the base of the formation. The views, down to the rushing Guyandotte River on the south, and across to the town of Pineville on the north, are well worth the short climb.

I've hiked around Castle Rock dozens of times and each time thought it was a thrill. What amazes me is that many local folk seem oblivious to this wonderful natural feature right in the center of their community.

On my last visit to Pineville, I talked to a local man, about my own age, who said he had never taken the short walk up to and around the rock, although he has worked just couple of blocks away from it for the past eight years. Sad to say, people everywhere are often the same way about wonderful attractions right in their own back yards.

Upper Falls, Holly River State Park, West Virginia

Of several waterfalls at Holly River State Park in West Virginia, this is by far the easiest to reach, and to me it is also the prettiest. To get there you will have to take a one lane mountain road for about 6 miles off the main highway, where you will find a small parking area. From there it is a short but sometimes steep hike. Wooden stairs with handrails lead you over the roughest parts.

When I was at the Upper Falls, in the middle of July, there was not another soul around. Because of recent thunderstorms there was a good flow at the time of my visit. In dry seasons the falls would be somewhat dimished, but still well worth the effort to visit.

This waterfall is not actually on the Holly River, but on a small tributary called Fall Run, a short distance before it flows into the Left Fork of the Holly.

Tygart Lake State Park, West Virginia

Just 7.4 miles south of Grafton, West Virginia, is beautiful Tygart Lake State Park. It is a magnet for boating and fishing enthusiasts and also a favorite for nature lovers of all types.

The park is nestled in the the foothills of the Allegheny Mountains. Its centerpiece, 1,740-acre Tygart Lake. was built by the Army Corps of Engineers in 1938. Overlooking the lake is a modern lodge with a restaurant and rooms that offer gorgeous views of the lake. There is also a marina, boat launching ramps, a campground, hiking trails, picnic shelters and other recreational opportunities.

I spent a very pleasant afternoon alone at the park, and made a promise to myself to return when Karen could come back with me.

www.tygartlake.com/

Grave of the First Casualty of the Civil War

The most notable grave in the Grafton National Cemetery, Grafton, West Virginia, is that of Private T. Bailey Brown, a Union soldier who was the first casualty of the War Between the States.On May 22, 1861, Brown, a member of the Grafton Guards, was on his way back home to Grafton, after being in nearby Pruntytown to recruit forces for the Union army.

With him was another Guard, Lt. Daniel Wilson. When they reached the Fetterman Bridge, the two men were ordered to halt by three Confederates, George E. Glenn, Daniel S. Knight, and William Reese, who were doing picket duty at the Bridge where the Northwestern Turnpike crossed the tracks of the Baltimore and Ohio railroad. Brown fired his pistol at the Confederates, injuring Knight in the ear. Knight returned fire in self defense, killing Brown almost instantly. Thus, Thornsberry Bailey Brown became the first casualty of the War Between the States.

A couple of weeks later, June 3, 1861, the first land battle of the Civil War was fought at Philippi, sixteen miles south of where T. Bailey Brown fell.

http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~wvtaylor/civilwar.htm

Grafton National Cemetery, West Virginia

Grafton is home of the first National Military Cemetery in West Virginia. Established in 1867, it is the final resting place for 1,215 Civil War soldiers, 664 of whom are unknown. Private T. Bailey Brown, the first Union soldier to be killed by a Confederate, is buried here.

Veterans of other wars, Including the Spanish-American War, World War I, World War II, Korea and Vietnam, are also buried at Grafton. Since 1961, the cemetery, with only 3.21 acres, has been full, with more than 2,000 graves of West Virginia veterans and dependents.

The entry to the cemetery becomes an "Avenue of Flags" on Memorial Day, Veterans Day, and other designated holidays when over 150 flags line the road.

Nancy Hanks Birthplace and Memorial

Nancy Hanks was born on February 5, 1784, in Hampshire County, Virginia in a log cabin along Mike's Run at the foot of New Creek Mountain in what is now Mineral County, West Virginia. Nancy grew up to marry Thomas Lincoln. One of Nancy and Thomas's sons, Abraham Lincoln, became the 16th President of the United States. The site of Nancy's birth has been marked by the Nancy Hanks Association, which placed a simple stone monument to mark the spot in 1933. Near the monument is a reconstructed log cabin, like the one in which Nancy Hanks was born.

The site is well off the beaten path. To find it, follow the signs which point off U.S. 220, just a few miles south of the Maryland/West Virginia state line in northeastern West Virginia. You will take a narrow, winding road through the mountains for more than six miles to find the memorial on a dead end one lane road, in a beautiful remote rural area. On one side of the road is the stone monument with a brass plaque, and on the other is the log cabin. When I was there the cabin was open, however the site is unattended and there are no interpretative displays.

I found it moving to stand alone in this in this quite, out-of-the-way spot and contemplate the life of the remarkable woman who gave birth to one of Americas most controversial leaders. Abraham Lincoln is credited with saving the Union, but many historians believe that he is actually responsible for dividing it - like a firefighter who is an arsonist, but gets credit for putting out the fire which he started. In the process, Lincoln flagrantly and repeatedly violated the United States Constitution which he had sworn to uphold. He is sometimes called the Great Centralizer, because he destroyed the sovereignty of the individual states and re-defined America as an empire.

Guyandotte River, Pineville, West Virginia

Pineville is located in the narrow winding valley carved through the rugged West Virginia mountains by the Guyandotte River, and also along Rockcastle Creek, a tributary of the Guyandotte. The Guyandotte, which flows a total of 166 miles, eventually empties into the Ohio River. Another nearby tributary of the Guyanddotte, Pinnacle Creek, offers great trout fishing in season, and also provides access to the Hatfield-McCoy trail system, which is a favorite of four wheelers, or all terrain vehicles.

I have two great memories of Pinnacle Creek. I caught a beautiful rainbow trout there, to the admiring cheers of my sons, Gregory and Christopher, who were just little tykes at the time. An even more vivid memory is of baptizing four new Christian converts in this creek on a cold January Sunday afternoon, with ice along the fringes of the swift flowing stream, near it's confluence with the Guyandotte. We waded in waist deep and I baptized them by immersion. The four new believers, all teenagers, didn't want to wait until warmer weather to be baptized. It chilled our bodies, but not our souls.

The Guyandotte River is not well developed as far as it's scenic and recreational potential is concerned, but anywhere you may find yourself in Pineville you are never far from it's shore. This view of the river is from a bridge that crosses the river, connecting the downtown Pineville from two city schools and a residential area. Most people here take their river for granted, but to me it is a beauty spot that should be protected, shown off and cherished.

Ritchie County Courthouse, Harrisville, West Virginia

In 1843 the state of Virginia formed Ritchie County from parts of Harrision, Lewis, and Wood Counties. Ritchie County was named for Thomas Ritchie, a journalist who had been the editor of The Richmond Enquirer and The Washington Record. He called Ritchie County his "Little Gem".

Harrisville, the county seat was established in 1832, but not chartered until 1869. The town, named for pioneer settler Thomas Harris, has about 1,800 residents. The county-wide population is just over 10,000.

Ritchie County is home to North Bend State Park.

Pineville, Wyoming County, West Virginia

I lived in Pineville, West Virginia in 1972-1973, when I was in my mid-twenties. It was a very happy and productive time in my life.

Pineville, with a population of well under 1,000, is the seat of Wyoming County in the rugged and remote coal mining region of southern West Virginia. The town is nestled mostly into a narrow strip of land along the Guyandotte River and Rockcastle Creek. The twisting valley is just wide enough for a couple of streets, a railroad track, and the river. In summer the sheltering mountains are lush and green, but in winter, when the sun rises above one mountain in mid-morning and slips behind another in mid-afternoon, it can be a bit depressing.

There's not a lot to do here, unless you enjoy exploring jumbled mountains which are criss-crossed with old logging and and mining roads. Trout fishing is also available in local streams, especially Pinnacle Creek. Twin Falls State Resort Park is only nine miles away. It's an hour's drive over winding mountain roads to the closest mall, cinema or other such ammenities - including a super Wal-mart - in the city of Beckley.

I last visited Pineville in May of 2006. Sadly, the town has a smaller population now than it did 35 years ago, when there were more than 1,300 people living there. It was disheartening to see several downtown businesses which were once thriving now closed. The entire economy is based on coal mining, which can provide a hard and not always dependable living, to say nothing of being dangerous. Coal miners are generally paid well when they are able to work, unlike those of a couple of generations ago who ""owed their souls to the company store."

Pineville is home to some of the most decent, honest, and honorable people I have ever known, plus a couple of rascals and a half dozen siftless hillbillies.

Cathedral State Park, West Virginia

Cathedral State Park, in the northeastern corner of West Virginia, contains one of the last remaining tracts of virgin timber in the state. Towering trees up to 90 feet in height and 21 feet in circumference provide a shady canopy for hiking, picnicking and nature study in this day-use park. Throughout the woods, eastern hemlock is the dominant species.

While passing through West Virgina on a road trip I stopped and hiked four of the six marked trails in this 133 acre park. The longest of the trails is just over one mile in length. Even though the eastern United States was in the grip of a heat wave at the time of my visit, the forest was relatively cool, being shaded and at an elevation varying from 2460 to 2620 feet.

More than 170 species of flowering plants have been catalogued in the park. I took photos of several, including hemlock trees, ferns and flowering rhododendron. More than 50 species of wildflower have been recorded here, plus numerous birds and animals. It is a great place to study nature in a setting so beautiful that it is called a Cathedral.

Bluestone Wild and Scenic River

A ten-mile segment of the Bluestone River in southern West Virginia was designated a National Scenic River by the National Park Service in 1988. This river was the first of three rivers in West Virginia to enter the Wild and Scenic River System, which protects free-flowing rivers throughout the United States.

The Bluestone begins on East River Mountain in Virginia and flows 77 miles to its confluence with the New River at Bluestone Lake near Hinton, West Virginia.

The section preserved as a National Scenic River flows through the Bluestone Gorge between Pipestem and Bluestone State Parks. These parks offer the best way to access the River. The parks are connected by a great hiking trail through the rugged gorge and along the river. The views are outstanding.

Beautiful Downtown Grafton, West Virginia

For such a small town, and off the beaten path, Grafton has several claims to fame. It is the birthplace of Mother's Day, the site of the first casualty of the War Between the States and home to West Virginia's only National Cemetary.

Grafton, with a population was 5,489 at the 2000 census, is the seat of Taylor County in north-central West Virginia. The City of Grafton was chartered in 1856. It is believed, that it is named after John Graften, a civil engineer of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The town has declined since the glory days of the railroad.