Blue Iguanas in the Cayman Islands

The Blue Iguana, aka Blue Dragon, is a symbol of the Cayman Islands. It is one of earth's rarest creatures, found in the wild only on Grand Cayman Island where an estimated 30 to 40 of them survive in their natural habitat. There is a worldwide population of about 150 Blue Iguanas, including those which are kept in zoos and aquariums.

The Blue Iguana can grow to 5 feet long and eats a vegetarian menu of leaves, flowers and fruit. During the mating season, hormones turn the males electric blue while the females brighten to powder blue.

We were not fortunate enough to glimpse this rare creature in the wild, although we did see many other iguanas of different species. But if you don't spot a live Blue Iguana you can surely find one of the fanciful fiberglass models which are placed at strategic public spots around George Town. In this first photo Karen is posing with one of them.

The Legend of Big Black Dick

If you ever go to the Cayman Islands you've got to pause and pay your respects to Big Black Dick.

According to legend, Big Black Dick was born of 'Royal' African parentage before being kidnapped by French slavers who gave him the name of "Richard Le Noir". His French captors tossed Richard overboard near Grand Cayman Island.

Miraculously reaching land, Dick became a slave on a sugar cane plantation where he learned the secrets of turning the cane into the Caribbean's finest rum. His kindly Caymanian master, recognizing Dick's hard work and honesty, awarded him his freedom in the early 1700's.

A free man and a skilled seaman, Big Black Dick soon earned the rank of captain of a three-masted-square rigger named "Caymanus". She was a ship carrying 20 cannons with a crew of near 200 men that were known as the best in the Caribbean.

History tells us that Dick was a dashing and handsome figure of a man, wearing a bright purple velvet coat and four pistols in his red silk sash. Those who knew him most intimately, say that Big Black Dick was a man indeed, possessing certain physical attributes unequalled by most all other men.

After a successful career, Big Black Dick retired to a more peaceful venture of making the best original pirate rum in the Caribbean.

Outdoor Craft Market, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

After my previous anti-shopping tip, I must admit that we did make a couple of small purchases in George Town. However, it was not at one of the glitzy shops, but from an individual who was selling her own crafts at the Outdoor Craft Market.

To find the market, turn right from the harbor and go up the main shopping street for about four or five blocks. You'll see the craft market on your left. It is an area of several tables where local folks come to display and sell their island creations. We enjoyed browsing here. Karen found a black coral necklace and I bought a souvenir to remind us of our visit to the Cayman Islands.

Shopping in the Cayman Islands

Okay, I'll admit that this is a pet peeve of mine, but it really troubles and saddens me that so many people who go to Cayman Islands - especially cruise ship passengers - experience practically nothing of the culture and history of the place. All they do is shop.

If shopping is your aim, why not just stay home and go to the mall.

So you still want a duty-free souvenir from "paradise?" You'll find scores of merchants here eager to take your money, but you'll have to stand in line behind lots of other tourists who are throwing their money away like drunken sailors.

Enough of my tirade. There are LOTS of shops in George Town - all catering to tourists. You can't miss them. Just step off the boat and they'll hit you in the face.

Offshore Banking in the Cayman Islands

The Cayman Islands, and George Town in particular, is an important center for international banking. More than 700 banks, representing interests from scores of different countries, have branches here.

The off shore financial services industry pumps millions of dollars into the local economy and is one of the reasons the Cayman Islands enjoys a higher standard of living than most other islands of the Caribbean.

I have managed to avoid the headache that comes from being concerned about high finance by keeping my personal worth at little more than the minimum needed for day-to-day survival.

Heroes Square, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

Heroes Square is at the hub of the city of George Town, sitting in front of the Legislative Assembly (Parliament). Surrounding the square are several important public structures including the Peace Memorial, Clock Tower, Public Library and the Post Office.

This is a pretty square with tasteful landscaping, splashing fountains, statues and interpretative markers which tell of the heroes who have been important to the history of George Town and the Cayman Islands.

Clock Tower and Peace Memorial, Grand Cayman Island

This historic Clock Tower and Peace Memorial sits at the heart of the old section of George Town, a couple of blocks back from the waterfront and across from Heroes Square.

A plaque on the Clock Tower says that it was "Erected by the people of the Cayman Islands in memory of their beloved King George V."

The Peace Memorial was built in 1919, at the close of the First World War. Apparently, it is open only for special occasions.

Fort George, Georgetown, Grand Cayman Island

Visitors to George Town, Grand Cayman can gain a greater appreciation for and understanding of the city and the island by taking a stroll along the Maritime Heritage Trail and the site of Fort George in the downtown area. Fort George was built in 1790 for defense against the Spaniards who raided the islands, taking captives to Cuba.

Signs along the shore tell of the tempests and tragedies that have shaped the Cayman history. Interpretative markers detail points of interest along the trail.

Along the trail, is a bronze memorial, titled "Tradition." It pays tribute to the almost 500 Caymanians who have lost their lives at sea. The memorial was officially unveiled in 2003 by Prince Edward, son of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip.

Church of God Full Gospel Hall, Georgetown, Grand Cayman Island

I could not help but notice the Church of God Full Gospel Hall in downtown George Town since I grew up in the same denomination in Cleveland, Tennessee. This is one several Churches of God in the island and according to a taxi driver it is one of the strongest churches on Grand Cayman.


On my second visit to George Town, in February, 2007, I happened to run into two very dear old friends from college days whom I had not seen in years - Ernest and Ann Roberts. They were on the same cruise ship with us. Our ship docked at George Town on a Sunday so Ernest and Ann took advantage of the opportunity to visit the Sunday morning services at the church. They said they went dressed like tourists (in shorts), and were made to feel very welcome. I noticed that the local folks coming in and out of the church were all dressed in their "Sunday best."

Elmslie Memorial United Church, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

The oldest Christian congregation in the Cayman Islands, Elmslie United Church was established by by accident - or was it divine providence? Rev. Hope Waddell, a Presbyterian minister from Jamaica, was a missionary en-route to Nigeria when his ship wrecked on a reef off the Cayman Islands. Discovering there was no organized church on the islands, Waddell stayed and established this congregation and others, beginning in 1846.

Today, the Elmslie United Church is an amalgam of Presbyterian, Congregational and Disciples of Christ congregations. Generally, Christians seem to be much better at splitting up than getting together, so it always does my heart good to see an exception such as this one.

The church is not a tourist attraction but an active local congregation. Sunday services are at 9:15 a.m., 11:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. Visitors are always welcome.

Cayman Islands National Museum

The Cayman Islands National Museum is located in the historic Old Courts Building in George Town, one of the island's few surviving 19th century structures. This wooden frame courthouse has survived countless hurricanes and nor'westers during its 150 year history. It has been used over the years not only as a courthouse but also as the town jail, a meeting hall for Sunday worship and civic dances. The complete story of this historic building is told in one of the Museum's exhibits.


Other exhibits in the museum tell of the Natural and Cultural history of the Cayman Islands, with a collection of more than 4,000 items. These range from tiny coins to a 14 foot catboat; natural history specimens to rare documents.

The museum complex includes a Museum Shop and a small cafe, The Cool Caboose

Swimming with Sting Rays on Grand Cayman Island

On our second visit to Grand Cayman, Karen and I decided we would take advantage of the opportunity to swim with the sting rays. Cruise ships offer this as a rather expensive shore excursion, on a boat jam packed with cruisers.

From experience we knew we could probably do better on our own. We went online and found a local tour guide to take us for the same trip, for about half the price, and with a much smaller group of people. Also, she threw in a couple of extra features which were not on the cruise ship's excursion.

Pictured below is the young lady who met us at the dock. Our ride was a van with a handful of other passengers. The van took us to a boat piloted by two very knowledgeable young men who provided us with a most excellent adventure.

Even for those who do not book their shore excursions in advance, at George Town you will find many local guides waiting for the ship and offering their services at reasonable prices. We've used such local guides many times at different ports and have been very satisfied with the services they have provided.

Cruising to the Cayman Islands

Karen and I have visited Georgetown, Grand Cayman twice by cruise ship. Once we were on the Empress of the Seas, Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, and the next time we were aboard the Zenith, Celebrity Cruise Lines.

Cruise Ships, though somewhat luxurious, just happen to be the least expensive way most travelers can visit many ports in the Caribbean and around the world. Transportation, lodging and meals are all included, and a cruise will have several different ports of call within a single voyage. To Fly individually to the same destinations, pay for transfers, room and meals would cost several times more than the cruise.

I have seen a few folks here on VT be critical of travel by cruise ship - too crowded and too touristy. They have a point, but they overlook what is a major fact of life for most of us. Cost.

We choose a cruise not for the amenities of the ship, but for the ports at which it will land. Once in port, most of the crowd can be left behind for a few hours by a creative traveler who goes his own way. Actually, the time spent on the ship can be lots of fun too. Even with a couple of thousand people on board we have seldom had a problem in finding private nooks where it seemed that no one else was around but us and the deep blue sea. If you're more gregarious, you can make friends on board too.

If you haven't tried cruise travel, give it a whirl. You may be pleasantly surprised. If you still hate it, then sail your own yacht next time.

Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville in the Cayman Islands brought back great memories of  "chasing my lost shaker of salt," and consuming a "Cheeseburger in Paradise" at the original Margaritaville in Key West Florida. Never having been a person who liked the taste of alcohol, it was there that I forced myself to drink the margarita I've ever had - just because.

If you like Jimmy Buffet's music, as I do, you'll enjoy Margaritaville. If you have a taste for good food, whether or not you like Jimmy Buffet's music, you'll love Margaritaville.

There are many things on the menu, but to me it would be almost sacrilege to eat here and not have the famous "Cheeseburger in Paradise."

"I like mine with lettuce and tomato

Heinz 57 and french fried potatoes

Big kosher pickle and a cold draft beer

Well good god almighty which way do i steer for my

Cheeseburger in paradise...."

--Jimmy Buffet

Hard Rock Cafe, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

We did not eat at the Hard Rock Cafe in George Town, but I have been to many other Hard Rocks in different parts of the world so I took a photo of this one. Hard Rock Cafes tend to be basically the same from place to place although the menu may vary slightly. The food is good, the decor is captivating, and the atmosphere is lively. My children - and younger people in general - seem to like Hard Rock better than I do. There have been times in a Hard Rock Cafe that I was glad that I'm hard of hearing.

Favorite Dish: Pig Sandwich: Hard Rock's most popular sandwich!
Select pork, hickory smoked and hand-pulled so it's tender and juicy. "An old southern delicacy" with Hard Rock's famous vinegar-based bar-b-que sauce.

The Menu says: "IF YOU'VE BEEN TO THE HARD ROCK AND HAVEN'T HAD A "PIG SANDWICH," YOU HAVEN'T BEEN TO THE HARD ROCK!"

I love the Pig Sandwich, but after eating one at the original Hard Rock in London, England I became deathly ill with food poisoning. I can't prove what caused it, and I'm sure most people don't have the same experience - but that was my last pig-out at Hard Rock.

Turtle Burgers in Paradise

On our first visit to George Town on Grand Cayman Island, Karen and I saw Paradise Resturant sitting right on the waterfront and thought it would be an excellent spot for lunch. Before our meal was ended we regretted our choice and I would not eat there again.

One thing I did like about the restaurant is that it offers a splendid view of the waterfront and Eden Rock. While sitting at our table we were able to photograph crabs Clamoring about on the coral rock as waves gently lapped over it.

Otherwise, the food was mediocre at best, our service was unusually slow and inattentive and the price was very high for what we got. They charged much more than I would have expected for a small glass of watered down iced tea served in a flimsy plastic cup. Then to add insult to injury, they wanted to charge me full price again for a refill.

I didn't see any locals eating at Paradise Restaurant, and they definitely don't seem to be looking for repeat business. However, as long as cruise ships disgorge thousands of new tourists every day at their front door they can probably get away with it.

Turtle Burger was on the menu and since I had never had turtle before I decided to give it a try. It was just okay - something like a crab cake with a very soft texture on a white hamburger bun. This came with lettuce, tomato, pickle and mayonaise, accompanied by a tiny bit of cole slaw and a small styrofoam container of dirty rice. The dirty rice was decent. The burger was rather bland. For the price, I would never have a second one.

Jail House Cafe, George Town, Cayman Islands

The Jail House Cafe is a convenient place to grab a quick bite to eat when you are visiting George Town on Grand Cayman Island.

The Cafe takes its name from the fact that it is in the old jail behind the old court house, which now houses the National Museum. The restaurant is conveniently located and we found it to be an excellent place to stop for a quick lunch while shopping and exploring the streets of downtown George Town.

The open-sided dining area consists of a few simple tables and chairs. You place your order at a counter from the menu is posted on the wall. Prices are a bit higher than in the United States, but reasonable by Grand Cayman Island standards. The Jail House Cafe is only open for breakfast and lunch.

When Karen and I ate lunch there we had a chicken sandwich, potato chips and soft drink which hit the spot for us.

The Road to Hell - Dispelling the Myths

This photo is of a native gift shop on the road from George Town to Hell, Grand Cayman Island.

All my life I've heard about Hell. However, after going to Hell and back, I must say that some of the things I'd heard about the place simply are not true.

I've always heard that the road to Hell is paved with "good intentions." Actually, the road we took to Hell seemed to be paved with asphalt.

I've heard many say that people are "going to Hell in a handbasket." We went to Hell in a taxi, and although I looked for handbaskets I couldn't find a single one there.

I've always been told that the road to Hell is wide and crowded. Hell Road is actually quite narrow and there is very little traffic at all.

People who haven't been there say Hell is HOT and DRY. When we were in Hell the temperatures were warm, but very pleasant, and ice water was available in the gift shops.

Shopping Like Hell

There are three souvenir/gift shops in Hell, Cayman Islands, and all of them carry similar items: Most people who come here don't want to leave without at least some small memento or maybe a T-shirt that says "I've been to Hell and Back."

We bought postcards - some of which were mailed next door at the Hell Post Office for it's unique postmark. And of course, I got a refrigerator magnet for my collection. I also bought a Coke which I enjoyed by adding a bag of salted peanuts. Putting peanuts into your Coca-Cola - or Diet Coke - is a tradition among many folks in the southern United States. Here in Hell, Cayman Islands, under the hot tropical sun, I found the treat to be just as refreshing as it is in Georgia.

Getting to Heaven from Hell

Hell, as in all of the Cayman Islands, is a very religious place - primarily Christian Protestant. This is evident by the large number of churches you see, and also the fact that most businesses in the Cayman Islands are closed on Sunday.

One shop owner in the town of Hell takes advantage of his unique name and location by displaying this sign on the side of his gift shop.

It reads:JESUS DIED FOR ALL OF US SO GIVE HIM YOUR HEART AND GO TO HEAVEN!