I've Been Everywhere . . .

The University of Georgia and the War for Southern Independence

2009-11-01T21:34:00.001-05:00

Near the 1857 Arch which marks the main entrance to the campus of the University of Georgia, at the intersection of Broad Street and College Avenue, Athens, Georgia, this historical marker gives a brief history of the university and bears silent witness to the impact of the War of 1861-1865, which is here named the War for Southern Independence. The marker reads:

Endowed with 40,000 acres of land in 1784 and chartered in 1785, the charter was the first granted by a state for a government controlled university. After Louisville and the Greensboro were first selected, the current site was chosen.

The first president, and author of the school's charter, Abraham Baldwin, resigned when the doors opened, and was succeeded by Josiah Meigs. The University first began to thrive under Moses Waddel, who became president in 1819. Alonzo Church was president in 1829-1859.

During the War for Southern Independence, most of the students entered the Confederate Army. The University closed its doors in 1864, and did not open again until January 1866. After the war many Confederate veterans became students.

Famous pre-war professors were John and Joseph LeConte and Charles F. McCay, while famous students were Robert Toombs, Alexander H Stephens, Howell Cobb, and Crawford W. Long.

Plans for a modern university were first developed by Walter B. Hill and realized under Harmon W. Caldwell. The best known of the post-war presidents (now chancellors) was David C. Barrow. The Builder of the modern plant was Chancellor Steadman V Sanford.

The Tree that Owns Itself

2009-11-01T21:24:00.000-05:00

This beautiful White Oak tree (Quercus alba), at the Corner of Dearing and Finley Streets, Athens, Georgia, owns itself. The tree was deeded to itself by Colonel William H. Jackson circa 1832. It may be the only emancipated tree in the world.

Upon giving the tree its freedom, Jackson wrote: "For and in consideration of the great love I bear (for) this tree and the great desire I have for its protection for all time, I convey entire possession of itself and all land within eight feet of the tree on all sides."

The curent tree pictured is actually a descendent of the original tree, in the same spot occupied by its predecessor. The scion of the original tree was planted by the Ladies Garden Club in 1946. In 1975 it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Since 1988 it has been officially designated as an Athens Historical Landmark.

Geographic Center of the United States

2009-10-27T11:05:00.001-04:00

This flag, on a private ranch in Butte County, South Dakota, is at the Geographic Center of the United States of America. The nearest town is Belle Fourche, about 20 miles to the south.

Embedded in concrete at the base of the flag is a reference mark (Center - No. 1) placed by the U. S. Coast Guard and Geodetic Survery in 1962. The flag and marker is surrounded by open prairie as far as the eye can see in all directions. The center of the United States is in the middle of nowhere.

Historic Powhatan, Arkansas

2009-10-16T22:42:00.000-04:00

Once the seat of Lawrence County, which covered most of the northern part of the state, Powhatan today is almost a ghost town. A series of several stair steps leads down the rocky hill upon which the Powhatan Courthouse stands to Powhatan's original town site. It sits in the river bottom where the ferry crossing and busy river traffic once kept the city a beehive of acitvity.

Only two buildings remain of the many (both commercial and residential) which comprised the town in the mid to late 19th century. Visitors may also see a few old foundations and an old well. Historical markers on the grounds and brochures, available at the Visitor Center, explain some of the points and features of Powhatan's colorful past.

Built of logs Circa. 1933, the Ficklin-Imboden House is the oldest standing building in Lawrence County. It is said to be "a fine example blending of the 'Tidwater South' and 'Midland' building syles.

Visitors may tour the house, which is complete with period furnishings. There is a detatched kitchen to the rear of the house. It offers a glimpse into an earlier time on what was once the American frontier.

Blue Iguanas in the Cayman Islands

2009-10-16T22:28:00.000-04:00

The Blue Iguana, aka Blue Dragon, is a symbol of the Cayman Islands. It is one of earth's rarest creatures, found in the wild only on Grand Cayman Island where an estimated 30 to 40 of them survive in their natural habitat. There is a worldwide population of about 150 Blue Iguanas, including those which are kept in zoos and aquariums.

The Blue Iguana can grow to 5 feet long and eats a vegetarian menu of leaves, flowers and fruit. During the mating season, hormones turn the males electric blue while the females brighten to powder blue.

We were not fortunate enough to glimpse this rare creature in the wild, although we did see many other iguanas of different species. But if you don't spot a live Blue Iguana you can surely find one of the fanciful fiberglass models which are placed at strategic public spots around George Town. In this first photo Karen is posing with one of them.

The Legend of Big Black Dick

2009-10-16T22:25:00.001-04:00

If you ever go to the Cayman Islands you've got to pause and pay your respects to Big Black Dick.

According to legend, Big Black Dick was born of 'Royal' African parentage before being kidnapped by French slavers who gave him the name of "Richard Le Noir". His French captors tossed Richard overboard near Grand Cayman Island.

Miraculously reaching land, Dick became a slave on a sugar cane plantation where he learned the secrets of turning the cane into the Caribbean's finest rum. His kindly Caymanian master, recognizing Dick's hard work and honesty, awarded him his freedom in the early 1700's.

A free man and a skilled seaman, Big Black Dick soon earned the rank of captain of a three-masted-square rigger named "Caymanus". She was a ship carrying 20 cannons with a crew of near 200 men that were known as the best in the Caribbean.

History tells us that Dick was a dashing and handsome figure of a man, wearing a bright purple velvet coat and four pistols in his red silk sash. Those who knew him most intimately, say that Big Black Dick was a man indeed, possessing certain physical attributes unequalled by most all other men.

After a successful career, Big Black Dick retired to a more peaceful venture of making the best original pirate rum in the Caribbean.

Outdoor Craft Market, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T22:23:00.000-04:00

After my previous anti-shopping tip, I must admit that we did make a couple of small purchases in George Town. However, it was not at one of the glitzy shops, but from an individual who was selling her own crafts at the Outdoor Craft Market.

To find the market, turn right from the harbor and go up the main shopping street for about four or five blocks. You'll see the craft market on your left. It is an area of several tables where local folks come to display and sell their island creations. We enjoyed browsing here. Karen found a black coral necklace and I bought a souvenir to remind us of our visit to the Cayman Islands.

Shopping in the Cayman Islands

2009-10-16T22:20:00.001-04:00

Okay, I'll admit that this is a pet peeve of mine, but it really troubles and saddens me that so many people who go to Cayman Islands - especially cruise ship passengers - experience practically nothing of the culture and history of the place. All they do is shop.

If shopping is your aim, why not just stay home and go to the mall.

So you still want a duty-free souvenir from "paradise?" You'll find scores of merchants here eager to take your money, but you'll have to stand in line behind lots of other tourists who are throwing their money away like drunken sailors.

Enough of my tirade. There are LOTS of shops in George Town - all catering to tourists. You can't miss them. Just step off the boat and they'll hit you in the face.

Offshore Banking in the Cayman Islands

2009-10-16T22:17:00.001-04:00

The Cayman Islands, and George Town in particular, is an important center for international banking. More than 700 banks, representing interests from scores of different countries, have branches here.

The off shore financial services industry pumps millions of dollars into the local economy and is one of the reasons the Cayman Islands enjoys a higher standard of living than most other islands of the Caribbean.

I have managed to avoid the headache that comes from being concerned about high finance by keeping my personal worth at little more than the minimum needed for day-to-day survival.

Heroes Square, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T22:14:00.001-04:00

Heroes Square is at the hub of the city of George Town, sitting in front of the Legislative Assembly (Parliament). Surrounding the square are several important public structures including the Peace Memorial, Clock Tower, Public Library and the Post Office.

This is a pretty square with tasteful landscaping, splashing fountains, statues and interpretative markers which tell of the heroes who have been important to the history of George Town and the Cayman Islands.

Clock Tower and Peace Memorial, Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T22:11:00.001-04:00

This historic Clock Tower and Peace Memorial sits at the heart of the old section of George Town, a couple of blocks back from the waterfront and across from Heroes Square.

A plaque on the Clock Tower says that it was "Erected by the people of the Cayman Islands in memory of their beloved King George V."

The Peace Memorial was built in 1919, at the close of the First World War. Apparently, it is open only for special occasions.

Fort George, Georgetown, Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T22:09:00.001-04:00

Visitors to George Town, Grand Cayman can gain a greater appreciation for and understanding of the city and the island by taking a stroll along the Maritime Heritage Trail and the site of Fort George in the downtown area. Fort George was built in 1790 for defense against the Spaniards who raided the islands, taking captives to Cuba.

Signs along the shore tell of the tempests and tragedies that have shaped the Cayman history. Interpretative markers detail points of interest along the trail.

Along the trail, is a bronze memorial, titled "Tradition." It pays tribute to the almost 500 Caymanians who have lost their lives at sea. The memorial was officially unveiled in 2003 by Prince Edward, son of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip.

Church of God Full Gospel Hall, Georgetown, Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T22:03:00.001-04:00

I could not help but notice the Church of God Full Gospel Hall in downtown George Town since I grew up in the same denomination in Cleveland, Tennessee. This is one several Churches of God in the island and according to a taxi driver it is one of the strongest churches on Grand Cayman.

On my second visit to George Town, in February, 2007, I happened to run into two very dear old friends from college days whom I had not seen in years - Ernest and Ann Roberts. They were on the same cruise ship with us. Our ship docked at George Town on a Sunday so Ernest and Ann took advantage of the opportunity to visit the Sunday morning services at the church. They said they went dressed like tourists (in shorts), and were made to feel very welcome. I noticed that the local folks coming in and out of the church were all dressed in their "Sunday best."

Elmslie Memorial United Church, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T21:59:00.001-04:00

The oldest Christian congregation in the Cayman Islands, Elmslie United Church was established by by accident - or was it divine providence? Rev. Hope Waddell, a Presbyterian minister from Jamaica, was a missionary en-route to Nigeria when his ship wrecked on a reef off the Cayman Islands. Discovering there was no organized church on the islands, Waddell stayed and established this congregation and others, beginning in 1846.

Today, the Elmslie United Church is an amalgam of Presbyterian, Congregational and Disciples of Christ congregations. Generally, Christians seem to be much better at splitting up than getting together, so it always does my heart good to see an exception such as this one.

The church is not a tourist attraction but an active local congregation. Sunday services are at 9:15 a.m., 11:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. Visitors are always welcome.

Cayman Islands National Museum

2009-10-16T19:25:00.000-04:00

The Cayman Islands National Museum is located in the historic Old Courts Building in George Town, one of the island's few surviving 19th century structures. This wooden frame courthouse has survived countless hurricanes and nor'westers during its 150 year history. It has been used over the years not only as a courthouse but also as the town jail, a meeting hall for Sunday worship and civic dances. The complete story of this historic building is told in one of the Museum's exhibits.

Other exhibits in the museum tell of the Natural and Cultural history of the Cayman Islands, with a collection of more than 4,000 items. These range from tiny coins to a 14 foot catboat; natural history specimens to rare documents.

The museum complex includes a Museum Shop and a small cafe, The Cool Caboose

Oho's Smallest Church - Healing Chapel

2009-10-16T19:16:00.001-04:00

In far eastern end of Athens County, Ohio, just west of the town of Coolville, you will see a sign pointing off U.S. 50 on County Road 63, to "Ohio’s Smallest Church," The tiny 10X14 foot structure is open 24/7, and is called “Healing Chapel.”

This doesn't seem to be a regular church, where worship services are held. It only has four short pews which might seat two small people each, although there is a pulpit and room for a not-too-active preacher to stand. Instead of a place of public worship, Ohio's smallest church is a non-denominational refuge for travelers who want to stop and offer a private prayer.

One either side of the pulpit was a container - one for prayer requests and the other for answered prayers. Each of them was full of scraps of paper with words scribbled on them. Inside the doorway is a bulletin board where many prayer requests, and a few testimonies of answered prayer are also posted. There was also a wide open collection box, with a few crumpled one dollar bills in it and a few cents in change.

Swimming with Sting Rays on Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T14:57:00.002-04:00

On our second visit to Grand Cayman, Karen and I decided we would take advantage of the opportunity to swim with the sting rays. Cruise ships offer this as a rather expensive shore excursion, on a boat jam packed with cruisers.

From experience we knew we could probably do better on our own. We went online and found a local tour guide to take us for the same trip, for about half the price, and with a much smaller group of people. Also, she threw in a couple of extra features which were not on the cruise ship's excursion.

Pictured below is the young lady who met us at the dock. Our ride was a van with a handful of other passengers. The van took us to a boat piloted by two very knowledgeable young men who provided us with a most excellent adventure.

Even for those who do not book their shore excursions in advance, at George Town you will find many local guides waiting for the ship and offering their services at reasonable prices. We've used such local guides many times at different ports and have been very satisfied with the services they have provided.

Cruising to the Cayman Islands

2009-10-16T14:43:00.001-04:00

Karen and I have visited Georgetown, Grand Cayman twice by cruise ship. Once we were on the Empress of the Seas, Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, and the next time we were aboard the Zenith, Celebrity Cruise Lines.

Cruise Ships, though somewhat luxurious, just happen to be the least expensive way most travelers can visit many ports in the Caribbean and around the world. Transportation, lodging and meals are all included, and a cruise will have several different ports of call within a single voyage. To Fly individually to the same destinations, pay for transfers, room and meals would cost several times more than the cruise.

I have seen a few folks here on VT be critical of travel by cruise ship - too crowded and too touristy. They have a point, but they overlook what is a major fact of life for most of us. Cost.

We choose a cruise not for the amenities of the ship, but for the ports at which it will land. Once in port, most of the crowd can be left behind for a few hours by a creative traveler who goes his own way. Actually, the time spent on the ship can be lots of fun too. Even with a couple of thousand people on board we have seldom had a problem in finding private nooks where it seemed that no one else was around but us and the deep blue sea. If you're more gregarious, you can make friends on board too.

If you haven't tried cruise travel, give it a whirl. You may be pleasantly surprised. If you still hate it, then sail your own yacht next time.

Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T14:38:00.003-04:00

Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville in the Cayman Islands brought back great memories of "chasing my lost shaker of salt," and consuming a "Cheeseburger in Paradise" at the original Margaritaville in Key West Florida. Never having been a person who liked the taste of alcohol, it was there that I forced myself to drink the margarita I've ever had - just because.

If you like Jimmy Buffet's music, as I do, you'll enjoy Margaritaville. If you have a taste for good food, whether or not you like Jimmy Buffet's music, you'll love Margaritaville.

There are many things on the menu, but to me it would be almost sacrilege to eat here and not have the famous "Cheeseburger in Paradise."

"I like mine with lettuce and tomato

Heinz 57 and french fried potatoes

Big kosher pickle and a cold draft beer

Well good god almighty which way do i steer for my

Cheeseburger in paradise...."

--Jimmy Buffet

Hard Rock Cafe, George Town, Grand Cayman Island

2009-10-16T14:35:00.001-04:00

We did not eat at the Hard Rock Cafe in George Town, but I have been to many other Hard Rocks in different parts of the world so I took a photo of this one. Hard Rock Cafes tend to be basically the same from place to place although the menu may vary slightly. The food is good, the decor is captivating, and the atmosphere is lively. My children - and younger people in general - seem to like Hard Rock better than I do. There have been times in a Hard Rock Cafe that I was glad that I'm hard of hearing.

Favorite Dish: Pig Sandwich: Hard Rock's most popular sandwich!
Select pork, hickory smoked and hand-pulled so it's tender and juicy. "An old southern delicacy" with Hard Rock's famous vinegar-based bar-b-que sauce.

The Menu says: "IF YOU'VE BEEN TO THE HARD ROCK AND HAVEN'T HAD A "PIG SANDWICH," YOU HAVEN'T BEEN TO THE HARD ROCK!"

I love the Pig Sandwich, but after eating one at the original Hard Rock in London, England I became deathly ill with food poisoning. I can't prove what caused it, and I'm sure most people don't have the same experience - but that was my last pig-out at Hard Rock.

Turtle Burgers in Paradise

2009-10-16T14:32:00.001-04:00

On our first visit to George Town on Grand Cayman Island, Karen and I saw Paradise Resturant sitting right on the waterfront and thought it would be an excellent spot for lunch. Before our meal was ended we regretted our choice and I would not eat there again.

One thing I did like about the restaurant is that it offers a splendid view of the waterfront and Eden Rock. While sitting at our table we were able to photograph crabs Clamoring about on the coral rock as waves gently lapped over it.

Otherwise, the food was mediocre at best, our service was unusually slow and inattentive and the price was very high for what we got. They charged much more than I would have expected for a small glass of watered down iced tea served in a flimsy plastic cup. Then to add insult to injury, they wanted to charge me full price again for a refill.

I didn't see any locals eating at Paradise Restaurant, and they definitely don't seem to be looking for repeat business. However, as long as cruise ships disgorge thousands of new tourists every day at their front door they can probably get away with it.

Turtle Burger was on the menu and since I had never had turtle before I decided to give it a try. It was just okay - something like a crab cake with a very soft texture on a white hamburger bun. This came with lettuce, tomato, pickle and mayonaise, accompanied by a tiny bit of cole slaw and a small styrofoam container of dirty rice. The dirty rice was decent. The burger was rather bland. For the price, I would never have a second one.

Jail House Cafe, George Town, Cayman Islands

2009-10-16T14:24:00.000-04:00

The Jail House Cafe is a convenient place to grab a quick bite to eat when you are visiting George Town on Grand Cayman Island.

The Cafe takes its name from the fact that it is in the old jail behind the old court house, which now houses the National Museum. The restaurant is conveniently located and we found it to be an excellent place to stop for a quick lunch while shopping and exploring the streets of downtown George Town.

The open-sided dining area consists of a few simple tables and chairs. You place your order at a counter from the menu is posted on the wall. Prices are a bit higher than in the United States, but reasonable by Grand Cayman Island standards. The Jail House Cafe is only open for breakfast and lunch.

When Karen and I ate lunch there we had a chicken sandwich, potato chips and soft drink which hit the spot for us.

The Road to Hell - Dispelling the Myths

2009-10-10T21:13:00.005-04:00

This photo is of a native gift shop on the road from George Town to Hell, Grand Cayman Island.

All my life I've heard about Hell. However, after going to Hell and back, I must say that some of the things I'd heard about the place simply are not true.

I've always heard that the road to Hell is paved with "good intentions." Actually, the road we took to Hell seemed to be paved with asphalt.

I've heard many say that people are "going to Hell in a handbasket." We went to Hell in a taxi, and although I looked for handbaskets I couldn't find a single one there.

I've always been told that the road to Hell is wide and crowded. Hell Road is actually quite narrow and there is very little traffic at all.

People who haven't been there say Hell is HOT and DRY. When we were in Hell the temperatures were warm, but very pleasant, and ice water was available in the gift shops.

Shopping Like Hell

2009-10-10T21:09:00.004-04:00

There are three souvenir/gift shops in Hell, Cayman Islands, and all of them carry similar items: Most people who come here don't want to leave without at least some small memento or maybe a T-shirt that says "I've been to Hell and Back."

We bought postcards - some of which were mailed next door at the Hell Post Office for it's unique postmark. And of course, I got a refrigerator magnet for my collection. I also bought a Coke which I enjoyed by adding a bag of salted peanuts. Putting peanuts into your Coca-Cola - or Diet Coke - is a tradition among many folks in the southern United States. Here in Hell, Cayman Islands, under the hot tropical sun, I found the treat to be just as refreshing as it is in Georgia.

Getting to Heaven from Hell

2009-10-10T21:03:00.003-04:00

Hell, as in all of the Cayman Islands, is a very religious place - primarily Christian Protestant. This is evident by the large number of churches you see, and also the fact that most businesses in the Cayman Islands are closed on Sunday.

One shop owner in the town of Hell takes advantage of his unique name and location by displaying this sign on the side of his gift shop.

It reads:JESUS DIED FOR ALL OF US SO GIVE HIM YOUR HEART AND GO TO HEAVEN!

Exploring Hell

2009-10-10T20:59:00.001-04:00

Hell, Grand Cayman, derives it's name from a natural area of black, limestone formations, about an acre in size - more or less. The rocks, called "Ironshore," are found in many locations on Grand Cayman. It is said that the largest and most spectacular forms of ironshore are found in Hell.

Visitors are not allowed in amongst the rocky formations. However, there is a wooden viewing platform behind the Hell Post Office. Early residents on Grand Cayman Island named the community for these formations which they imagined to resemble the charred landscape of Hades. We didn't try it, but it is said that if a pebble is thrown out into the formation, it sometimes echoes amongst the limestone peaks and valleys, sounding as if it were falling all the way down to Hell.

Mailing Postcards from Hell

2009-10-10T20:56:00.001-04:00

If you go to Hell you MUST send a postcard to someone with the postmark to prove that you were there. I have a favorite Aunt who lives in Atlanta and has collected postcards all her life. Now Aunt Fay has a postcard from Hell - sent by her loving nephew and his lovely wife.

We learned that home mail delivery is not available in the Cayman Islands, so several small post offices are scattered throughout the islands with post office boxes available to the local residents. This is a real working post office and not a tourist attraction, although many tourists mail cards from here. They also offer a variety of colorful Cayman Islands stamps for collectors.

Oh yea, on your postcard be sure to include the line: "Wish you were here."

Our Taxi to Hell

2009-10-10T20:53:00.002-04:00

The tiny town of Hell is well off the beaten path on the northwestern end of Grand Cayman Island. Tour buses go there, or you could take a rental car. Karen and I were with a group of my family members and we hired a taxi/van to take us to Hell.

If you do decide to rent your own car and drive to Hell, be sure to have a good map, because there are few directional signs on the road to Hell. Also, be advised that they drive on the left side of the road here. And - contrary to conventional wisdom - you don't have to "Drive like Hell" to get there.

Our driver, Bronson, was a very knowledgeable older gentleman who shared with us many interesting bits of information about the sights we saw along the way. Taxis are easy to find in the downtown area of George Town on Grand Cayman Island.

Hell, Cayman Islands

2009-10-10T20:47:00.005-04:00

People have been telling me to "Go to Hell" for as long as I can remember, so I finally went - just for the Hell of it. Who could have known that I would find Hell in Paradise.

Hell is a small district in West Bay on the northwestern end of Grand Cayman Island. The community consists of a post office, three gift shops, a few scattered houses, and an intriguing rock formation which inspired locals to call it "Hell." This is a fun place to visit, if for no other reason than it lends itself to so many good-natured jokes. It is also a great place to get intresting one-of-a-kind souvenirs.

Hell is located in a beautiful rural area of Grand Cayman Island which makes for an enjoyable diversion from the crowded streets of George Town, the capitol city, where most tourists tend to gather. However, Hell itself can be crowded when tour buses full of cruise ship passengers are disgorged here - all happy to say afterwards that they've been to Hell and back.

We didn't see the devil in Hell. Perhaps he was out for the moment - or just wearing one of his many disguises.

However, on the viewing platform which overlooks the Hell rock formations there is a cutout picture of the devil where you can insert your own head for a photo. You will find it at the end of a short boardwalk, behind the Hell Post Office. Few who visit Hell can resist this hellish opportunity. Best of all - it's free.

Downtown Saturday and Sunday Markets, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T20:41:00.002-04:00

I loved browsing through this downtown market which is open every Saturday and Sunday from mid-May through mid-September, from 10 a.m. 'till 6 p.m. There are over 300 vendors, all under neat white canopies. The atmosphere is like that of a carnival or fair, including free live entertainment. I didn't buy much, but you can find just about anything you can imagine here, from cars to cookies, and a few things you may have never imagined. Less than you'll pay most other places in Anchorage.

Oomingmak: The Qiviut Shop, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T20:37:00.002-04:00

This unique shop, operated by the Musk Ox Producers Co-Operative, sells wearable masterpieces which are hand-crafted by its 250 members who live in remote coastal Alaskan villages. The items are all spun and knitted from the downy-soft underwool the Arctic Musk Ox, the lightest and warmest material imaginable - much more so than sheep's wool. Pound for pound it is also warmer than any fur I know of, and the designs are quite beautiful, all in their natural light brown color. The items are said to be very durable and serviceable.

In the shop you will find caps, scarves, tunics, stoles, etc, as well as miscellaneous gift items. These are truly unique Alaskan gifts that you will find nowhere else.

Mud Flats of Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm

2009-10-10T20:33:00.004-04:00

The extensive mudflats that surround the city of Anchorage, Alaska, are very impressive to behold, but getting stuck in them could be more than an inconvenience. To a few unfortuate souls it has been fatal.

Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm have the second highest tides in all of North America, surpassed only by the Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia. Each time the tide goes out it exposes extensive mudflats which are composed of glacial silt carried down by rivers to the sea. These mudflats exhibit a quicksand-like quality and if you venture out onto them during low tide there is a very real possibility of becoming seriously stuck.

I heard one horrow story of a woman who was caught so firmly by the vice-like grip of the mud that the incoming tides covered and drowned her, in spite of the heroic but futile efforts of would-be rescuers from the National Guard. Only a fool would take such a chance.

Iditarod Starting Line, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T20:26:00.001-04:00

Each winter Anchorage, Alaska, is host to two of the world's greatest sled dog races, the Fur Rendezvous World Championship Dog Sled Race and the Iditarod. The photo above is the starting line for both of these great races.

The World Championship Sled Dog Race is one of the fastest, toughest and oldest races of its kind. First run in 1946, it is a part of the Fur Rendezvous, the premier winter festival in Alaska.The Iditarod had its beginning as a mail and supply route from the coastal towns of Seward and Knik, northeastward through several interior mining camps, and ultimately to Nome on the Bering Sea. In 1925 the Iditarod Trail became a life saving highway when Nome was stricken by a diptheria epidemic. The only way to get serum to that remote town in winter was by intrepid dog mushers and their faithful hard-driving dogs.

The modern Iditarod dog sled race began in 1973, to commemorate that event. It has been aptly called "The Last Great Race on Earth," covering 1,150 miles and taking from 10 to 17 days through some of the most inhospital terrain on earth.

Directions:On 4th Avenue, between D and E Streets.

Alaska Center for the Performing Arts

2009-10-10T20:24:00.001-04:00

If you have any interest at all in the performing arts then the Alaska Performing Arts Center is the place to be in Anchorage. Owned and operated by the city, this is a multi-venue performing arts center with 176,000-square-feet of space and four performing stages. You can catch anything here from Rock to Bach, or even a spelling bee.

Unfortunately, I was unable to attend a performance when I was in Anchorage, but I still enjoyed peaking inside and strolling through the beautiful small park and gardens in front of the center. The lobby is usually open, and tours are held Wednesday at 1 p.m. A $1.00 donation is requested.Thespians believe that the ghost of painter Sydney Laurence haunts the building, making lights dim and brighten mysteriously and elevators go up and down with no one in them. An auditorium demolished to make room for the center was named for Laurence.

The Tony Knowles Coastal Trail

2009-10-10T20:22:00.003-04:00

Anchorage, Alaska, has more than 120 miles of paved bike and multi-use trails and 85 miles of summer non-paved hiking trails. Residents and visitors alike can enjoy 130 miles of winter walkways that are plowed, more than 100 miles of groomed ski trails, 24 miles of lighted ski trails, and 36 miles of mushing trails.

One afternoon I hiked about half of the 11-mile Tony Knowles Coastal Trail and thoroughly enjoyed the scenic views of Knik Arm, Cook Inlet, the city skyline, wildlife and late summer wildflowers. The web link below gives information and maps of the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail and two other popular Anchorage trails.

The Tony Knowles Coastal Trail begins at the end of 2nd Avenue in Anchorage, circles the downtown area, goes through Earthquake Park and follows the coast for a total of 11 miles past Point Woronzof to Kincaid Park.

Oscar Anderson House, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T20:18:00.003-04:00

Built by Swedish immigrant Oscar Anderson, an early pioneer and businessman in Anchorage, this is one of the oldest privately built homes, and the only house museum, in the city. Guided tours of approximately 45 minutes tell not only of Oscar Anderson and his family, but also of the early tent city of Anchorage and the building of the Alaska Railroad.

The house is on the National Register of Historic Places. It is located on the western edge of downtown Anchoage, Alaska, at 5th Avenue and M Street, in Elderberry Park.

Alaska's Cook Inlet

2009-10-10T20:11:00.003-04:00

The City of Anchorage, Alaska, overlooks Cook Inlet, named for Captain James Cook who explored this area in his vain search for a northwest passage across the top of the North American continent in 1778. The inlet , surrounded by mountains and filled with glacial silt, extends from Anchorage 150 miles to the open Pacific Ocean. These waters are ferocious and wild, with whirlpool currents and a tidal range of almost 40 vertical feet. However, a navigable passageway is kept open, allowing Anchorage to be a major ocean port, as well as a favorite destination for numerous cruise ships.

At Anchorage, Cook Inlet divides into two arms, Knik Arm extending to the northeast, and Turnagain Arm extending to the southeast. This photo of the Cook Inlet, framed with mudflats and fireweed, was taken from Anchorage along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail. The small boat you see in the center is actually a very large ocean freighter making its way toward the Port of Anchorage.

This view of Mt. Susitana across the Cook Inlet, is taken from Resolution Park in Anchorage. According to an ancient native legend Mt. Susitana is a giant sleeping lady. When friends came to tell her that her lover had been killed in battle, they could not bear to wake her. Instead they asked the gods to protect her until peace returned forever to the land. The gods complied and now she sleeps under a blanket of grasses in summer and soft snow in winter.

In summer pods of 15 or more Beluga Whales may sometimes be seen from this point. In the distance they appear as small white specks, as they search for spawning Salmon making their way up the Cook Inlet.On a clear day you can see Mount McKinley from this point, 120 miles to the north.

Wyland Whale Mural, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T20:08:00.001-04:00

On the east side of Town Square, on E Street, Anchorage, Alaska, you will see a huge whale mural, or Whaling Wall, which was painted freehand by sea-life artist Wyland in 1994. This is one of 84 such life-size ocean murals which Wyland had painted in cities throughout the U.S., Canada, Japan, Australia, New Zealand and Europe.

The famous artist, known only as Wyland, was born Robert Wyland in a Detroit suburb in 1956. He has overcome personal poverty and physical handicaps to paint these murals which are now seen by an estimated one billion people per year. Wyland's goal is to make people all over the world aware of the struggle of whales, dolphins and all ocean life.

Elderberry Park, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T20:05:00.002-04:00

I discovered this small park on the edge of downtown Anchorage when I was looking for a free parking spot to take a walking tour of Anchorage. Not only did I find free parking here, but the park also offers a picnic area, playground equipment, and benches with a view of Cook Inlet.

On a return trip to Anchorage I used Elderberry Park as the beginning point for a hike on the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail. The paved hike/bike trail tunnels under the Alaska Railroad tracks from the bottom of the park and hugs the coast for 11 very scenic miles. Next to Elderberry Park is the historic yellow-and-brown Oscar Anderson House, which is open for tours.

Elderberry Park is at the western end of 5th Avenue, overlooking Cook Inlet.

Statehood Monument, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T20:03:00.002-04:00

This monument, at Ship Creek Overlook in Anchorage, commemorates Alaska's admission to the Union as the 49th state in 1959, during the administration of President Dwight D. Eisenhower. Actually many folks say Eisenhower was a major barrier to Alaska statehood, but he was the president, so he still gets his bust on the monument. It was erected in 1990, in honor of 75 years since the establishment of Anchorage, and also the centennial of President Eisenhower's birth.

From the overlook you can see the Alaska Railroad yards, part of the Port of Anchorage and the neighborhood of Government Hill, across the Ship Creek river bottom. This is where the tent city of Knik Anchorage, later shortened to Anchorage, was set up in 1914.

An informative set of signs on the overlook explains the history of what your are seeing.Ship Creek itself is full of salmon in June and August, and a walkway that crosses a dam just upstream from here is a good place to watch the fish and to feed ducks. There is a stairway which leads down from the overlook to the river bottom. It's a strenuous climb back up the stairs.

Summer Flowers in Downtown Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T19:58:00.004-04:00

Downtown Anchorage is a riot of bloom throughout the long days of summer. You will see flowers of every color in planters, beds and hanging baskets along virtually every street, and especially in parks and in front of public buildings as those in this photo, in a small park in front of the Alaska Center for the Performing Arts.

If you are one of those who has always thought of Anchorage as a city mantled in perpetual ice and snow, think again. Summers are glorious here, and the long daylight hours and mild temperatures are perfect for growing some of the most beautiful flowers you will see anywhere. I lived for several years in the deep south and our flowers did not do nearly so well there because of the heat. Downtown Anchorage is a riot of bloom throughout the long days of summer. You will see flowers of every color in planters, beds and hanging baskets along virtually every street, and especially in parks and in front of public buildings as those in this photo, in a small park in front of the Alaska Center for the Performing Arts.

These fireweed show that wildflowers grow very well in Alaska too.

Holy Family Cathedral, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T19:56:00.001-04:00

Holy Family Cathedral of the Archdiocese of Anchorage is small and plain as cathedrals go, but still interesting to see if you are in downtown Anchorage. The structure was moved in the 1920s from the tiny town of Kniki, 57 miles south of Anchorage, by horse and sleigh. Church members have since added to the building and it has been in it's current form since 1952.

In front of the cathedral is the statue of a praying saint, and a plaque commemorating the visit of Pope John Paul II in 1981. During his visit the pope held a mass attended by 50,000 people in a nearby park.

Log Cabin Visitor Information Center, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-10T19:51:00.002-04:00

Downtown Anchorage at the corner of 4th Avenue and F Street you will find this log cabin with a sod roof beside the Old City Hall. It is the Log Cabin Visitor Information Center. Outside the center is a sign giving directions to various cities and a 4,114-pound jade boulder put on display by Stewart's Photo Shop, across the street. Here you are in the center of the main tourist and shopping area of the city.

If you can spare a couple of hours I recommend you step inside and get the brochure which will lead you on a walking tour of downtown Anchorage, and past many of the city's attractions and points of interest. It will be time well invested in getting an overview of what Anchorage has to offer.

Anchorage is roughly equidistant from three of the world's major markets: New York, London and Tokyo, making it a strategic location for international air commerce.It is also interesting to note that Anchorage shares a similar latitude with Stockholm, Sweden and St. Petersburg, Russia, and a similar longitude with other regions explored by Captain James Cook, including Tahiti, Hawaii and the Cook Islands.

The signpost pictured below is in front of the Log Cabin Visitor Information Center in downtown Anchorage, gives the distance to major cities in Alaska and around the world.

White River Heritage Museum

2009-10-10T19:44:00.004-04:00

On the day we stopped in White River, Ontario, Canada, May 11, we were told by the lady at the Visitor Information Centre that she had just received a call from her friend two blocks down the street at the White River Heritage Museum. The curator of this small part-time museum, which normally doesn't open for the season until June, said she was there putting up some new displays and had decided to open early. That's how we came to be the very first visitors to White River Heritage Museum for the 2004 season.

Since White River was the birthplace of Winnie-the-Pooh, this small facility houses hundreds of items in it's Winnie-the-Pooh collections, plus a few Railroad Displays and local Historical Exhibits. There is also a small gift shop. "Pooh" lovers of all ages will especially enjoy this museum, and so will railroad and history buffs. We qualified on all three counts.

Winnie-the-Pooh Statue, White River, Ontario, Canada

2009-10-10T19:40:00.003-04:00

This colorful twenty-five-foot statue of Winnie-the-Pooh in a tree honors the birthplace of White River's most famous citizen. It is in White River Visitor Park, clearly seen from the south side of the Trans-Canada Highway.On August 24, 1914, during the First World War, a tiny female black bear cub was brought by a local trapper to the Canadian Pacific Railway Station in White River.

On this fateful day a troop train bound for Val Cartier, Quebec, stopped at the CPR station and a young Canadian Army veterinarian, Lt. Harry Colebourn from Winnipeg, disembarked. He noticed the little bear cub and purchased her from the trapper for $20. Colebourn named the cub Winnipeg, later shortened to Winnie, after his home town.

Winnie became the mascot of the 34th Fort Garry Horse Regiment and accompanied them overseas to England. When the regiment received orders to go to the front lines in France, Winnie was left in care of the London Zoo.

Winnie was an exceptional and gentle bear and soon became the feature attraction at the zoo. She captivated the hearts of many Londoners, especially Christopher Robin Milne, son of the author A. A. Milne, who wrote the stories of Winnie-the-Pooh. The cub from White River gave her name to the "Winnie-the-Pooh character, and A. A. Milne, along with illustrator E. H. Shepard, gave Winnie-the-Pooh to the world.

If you're ever in White River, you MUST stop and have your picture made with Winnie. White River proudly proclaims its status as the birthplace of Winnie-the-Pooh by celebrating Winnie's Hometown Festival, which is held the third weekend in August every year.

White River, Ontario, Canada - Birthplace of Winnie-the-Pooh

2009-10-10T19:36:00.006-04:00

White River, Ontario, is a community of 1,000 people, located along the Trans-Canada Highway, 3.5 hours north of Sault Ste. Marie and 4 hours east of Thunder Bay. It was established in 1885, as a railroad stop, half way between Winnipeg and Toronto. Set amidst the rugged and picturesque boreal forest of the Canadian Shield, it is also a center for lumbering.

For such a remote small town, White River has two claims to fame. It is one of the coldest spots in North America, with winter temperatures sometimes dipping to less than -60 F (-50 C). More importantly, to us, White River is the birthplace of one of childhood's most endearing characters, Winnie-the-Pooh.

Would you believe that in this remote outpost we found one of the only Tourist Information Centres in Northern Ontario that is actually open year round. The building depicts the White River Canadian Pacific Railway Station of 1940. In it you will find wash rooms, Winnie-the-Pooh memorbilia for sale, and information on the local area, including snowmobiling opportunities in winter. The lady operating the centre was very friendly and helpful.

The White River Tourist Information Centre is on the Trans-Canada Highway at Elgin Street. It is open 8-5 daily, except holidays.

Inukshuk along Top of the World Highway

2009-10-10T10:01:00.003-04:00

Throughout the far north, especially in the Arctic where there are few trees or other distinguishing landmarks, one may see examples of Inukshuk (in-OOK-shook). These are traditional landmarks built by the native Inuit people and their name means "In the image of man." This photo was taken on a high rocky ridge near the "Top of the World Highway" in the Yukon Territory, Canada.

Inukshuk were originally built as a guide for a safe journey. Today they have also taken on the symbolism of leadership, encouraging the importance of friendship, and reminding us of our dependence upon one another.

Top of the World Highway, Yukon Territory

2009-10-10T09:48:00.005-04:00

From the Canadian Customs Station at LIttle Gold Creek, on the Alaskan border, it is 66 miles (105 km) to the first town, Dawson City, via the "Top of the World Highway." The route begins at an elevation of more than 4,100 feet and climbs higher. Much of it is above timberline at this northern latitude. The awesome views certainly give one a planetary feeling.

The road is winding and only partly paved with many stretches of gravel, so the going will be slow. Expect to take two hours to drive the 66 miles (105 km) from the border to Dawson City. Likely you will want to take even more time like I did to get out and hike some of the high open ridges across the tundra, revelling in the splendid views.

At the end of the Top of the World Highway you will descend to the Yukon River where a small free ferry, running 24 hours a day in season, will carry you across the river and into Dawson City.

Entering the Yukon Territory from Alaska

2009-10-10T09:39:00.003-04:00

Those who drive to the Yukon Territory from Alaska via the Taylor Highway from Tetlin Junction, will enter through this customs station on the Top of the World Highway. At an elevation of 4,127 feet you will be above timberline at this northern latitude.

When you arrive here you will have been traveling on winding gravel roads for more than 50 miles. The going is slow. Expect to take 3.5 hours to drive from the last significant town in Alaska, Tok, which is 106 miles (176 km) away.

Little Gold Creek has no permament residents. The Customs Post is generally open May 15 - Sept 15, but those dates can vary depending on the weather. The road is maintained only during summer and is closed the rest of the year because of snow. Daily hours of operation are from 8:00 a.m. until 8:00 p.m., Yukon time, which is one hour ahead of Alaska time.

To cross from the U.S. into Canada you will need a passport. Just proof of American citizenship is no longer enough. Don't carry any drugs, guns, or more than $10,000 cash with you and clearing customs should be a snap.

Bird Point, Turnagain Arm, Alaska

2009-10-09T22:09:00.003-04:00

When driving south from Anchorage on the Seward Highway, Hwy. #1, shortly after leaving the city you will come to a very scenic shore with the Chugach Mountains to your left and Turnagain Arm backed by the Kenai Peninsula to your right. The tracks of the Alaska Railway also parallel this route. This is one of the most scenic drives in all of Alaska.

Turnagain Arm was named by Captain James Cook in 1778, when he was forced to "turn" his ship back "again" after failing to find a river. The Arm is actually a glacial fjord filled with intertidal sediment. Here, and at nearby Kink Arm are the only places in the United States where a bore tide (a wall of water coming in with the tide) appears on a regular basis. The bore may be from 2 to 6 feet high and travel at 10 to 15 miles per hour. Depending on the tide, Turnagain Arm may appear as a wide body of water, or the biggest mudflat you have ever seen. Either way, it is beautiful, and deceptively dangerous.

Chugach State Park provides many recreational opportunities in this area. I camped one night in the park on an earlier trip to Alaska, but left because of posted warnings of recent agressive bear activity. The Turnagain Arm Trail through the park is a favorite with hikers.

Portage Glacier, Alaska

2009-10-09T22:06:00.001-04:00

Portage Glacier is called "Alaska's most popular attraction," and it is definitely worth seeing. There are more spectacular sights in Alaska, but none more convenient for the visitor to Anchorage. Gray Line of Alaska offers tours leaving from downtown Anchorage, or you can visit the glacier on your own by driving 50 miles south on the Seward Highway.

Your first stop at Portage Glacier should be the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center where you will see several informative exhibits. An excellent film, "Voices from the Ice," is shown at the Visitor Center on the hour and is highly recommended. After viewing the film you may want to take a walk around the lake which has been formed by the glacier and look for icebrergs.

The glacier itself is retreating and can no longer be seen from the Visitor Center. However, the face of the glacier still reaches down more than 100 feet into the lake. Hiking trails take you to Portage Glacier and also to other nearby glaciers including Byron, where you can actually climb on the ice. Boat tours are also available and are very popular.

Directions:The turnoff for Portage Valley Road and Beich, Boggs Visitor is 50 miles south of Anchorage and 77 miles north of Seward on the New Seward Highway, #1.

Anchorage International Hostel

2009-10-09T22:04:00.002-04:00

I have stayed at this hostel on two different occasions and would definitely do so again. It is cheap, clean, well run, and very conveniently located in downtown Anchorage, within walking distance of many attractions and points of interest, as well as bus and train stations. One of the things I enjoy most about staying in hostels is the opportunity to meet other travelers from around the world. Anchorage International Hostel is a big bustling place and the staff and guests I have met here have all been friendly. Some have been downright interesting as well.

Unique Qualities: There are 3 to 6 beds in each of the gender-specific dorm rooms, with gym-style lockers. There is a large, well equipped common kitchen and seperate dining area as well as a large living room. The dormitory rooms are closed daily from 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. for cleaning and security purposes, however, the common areas remain open from 8 a.m. 'till 1 a.m., which is cerfew. There is a courtesy telephone for local calls and pay phones for long distance. Internet access is available for a small fee.

The hostel does not provide parking, but I found free on-street overnight parking just a couple of blocks away.

Spenard Hostel International, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-09T22:00:00.001-04:00

I chose this hostel for my first couple of nights in Anchorage primarily because my flight was arriving late and it is close to the airport. I had a reservation and when I got to the hostel I found a note taped to the front door with my name on it and directions to my doom room. I need not have worried about arriving so late because the place was open and a few people were around. The staff had just left at 11 p.m. - a few minutes before my arrival. Quiet time begins at 10 p.m., but there is no curfew and no lockout.

It was a comfortable, friendly, no-hassle place to stay.Unique Qualities: There is a large fenced yard yard with barbeque grill, bike storage, laundry room and free, but limited, off-street parking. A small market and restaurants are nearby. They have 3 full kitchens and four homestyle bathrooms. The dorms are a little tight, but ok, and contain 4, 6 or 7 bunks. There is a dining room seperate from the kitchens and three large common areas.

Anchorage Depot - The Alaska Railroad

2009-10-09T21:59:00.001-04:00

Alaska Railroad runs from Anchorage south to Seward and north to Fairbanks. It provides a very scenic and popular way to see America's last frontier, including some areas where there is no other road. Although I did not ride the Alaska Railroad here in Anchorage, I did have taken a trip on it from Talkeetna north to Denali, and considered it to be one of the highlights of my visits to Alaska. Regular passenger service and special tours are both offered on this railroad which has been ranked as one of the best in the United States.

The beautifully preserved old steam engine on the pedestal in front of the depot was used in construction of the Panama Canal, then worked here in the Anchorage rail yard as a switch engine until its retirement.

Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport

2009-10-09T21:57:00.001-04:00

Alaska has six times more pilots per capita and 14 times as many airplanes per capita as the rest of the United States. The Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport serves 5 million passengers each year. Lake Hood, in Anchorage, is the largest and busiest seaplane base in the world with an average of 234 takeoffs and landings daily, and more than 800 on a busy summer day. Merrill Field records more than 207,000 flights each year and more than 1,200 on a peak day in July. This is because of the many remote villages and parks in Alaska which can not be reached by road and are easily accessible only by air.

Rumrunners Bar and Grill

2009-10-09T21:51:00.003-04:00

It was my last evening in Anchorage, Alaska, I was alone, and was drawn to Rumrunners by the outside tables. It is in Old Towne, the main tourist area of Anchorage, and a great place to people watch while getting a bite to eat. The only problem is that the service, at least for the outside tables, was very slow and inattentive. Maybe the wait staff was more occupied with the larger inside crowd where there was lots of noise, a dance floor and liquor flowing.

While I was dining a panhandler came by and solicited all of the outside diners. And no, he didn't want a bite to eat. I would have given him that.

I had the Fish and Chips: battered cod filets deep fried with french fried potatoes and cole slaw. It was OK. My suspicion is that those who dine inside the restaurant with a larger party may get better service and have a totally different experience here than I did.

Snow City Cafe, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-09T21:50:00.002-04:00

I stopped a total stranger on the street in downtown Anchorage at about 8 a.m. and asked, "Where's the best place around here for breakfast?" Without hesitating he directed me past two other restaurants to Snow City Cafe. The first thing that struck me about the restaurant were the beautiful flowers in front, and the second thing was the crowd. I got the last empty table.

Snow City Cafe is obviously a popular place with the downtown working crowd as well as tourists. They only serve breakfast and lunch here, and are open from 7 a.m. 'till 4 p.m. The atmosphere was very inviting and the service was fast and friendly.

I couldn't resist the Snow City Scramble: Three eggs scrambled with Black Forest ham, cheddar, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms and grilled onions. It was as great as it sounds - and the portion was generous enough to fuel me up for a full morning of sightseeing.

Glacier Brew House, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-09T21:39:00.003-04:00

Glacier Brew House has been named by Travelocity as one of the ten best restaurants in Alaska, and with just one visit there you will see why. I was fortunate to meet Anchorage a local Alaska friend, Patty, whose downtown office is just across the street from the Anchorage International Hostel, and she was kind enough to take her lunch break to show me around. The restaurant was a short walk from the hostel.

The Glacier Brewhouse is large, modern, very nicely appointed, and we found it bustling with the local downtown lunch crowd. A special bonus is that we got our lunch for free. I was enjoying my conversation with Patty so much that I didn't even notice the server took a long time to bring our meal. The manager of the restaurant stopped by our table, apologized for the delay, and said our lunch was on the house. Honestly, I don't think it was all that late, but these folks sure aim to please. They will definitely get my business again the next time I am in Anchorage.

Favorite Dish: I had the Salmon BLT: Alderwood grilled Alaskan salmon, pepper bacon, beefsteak tomato, romaine hearts, basil aioli on homemade focaccia bread. It was a choice that would have been hard to beat.

Resolution Park, Anchorage, Alaska

2009-10-09T21:36:00.001-04:00

Resolution Park is on a small but prominent point overlooking Cook Inlet. A bronze statue of Captain James Cook stands on a large wooden deck, but he is gazing out to sea - the opposite of the way he was facing when he explored Cook Inlet in 1778 aboard the HMS Resolution. Cook didn't personally come this far up the inlet, instead sending a boat with his ship's master, William Bligh, later to become Captain Bligh who inspired mutiny aboard the HMS Bounty.

Cook's goal on his third voyage was to discover a north-west passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, and failing to find it here, he considered his two weeks in the inlet that bears his name a waste of time, never envisioning that one day Alaska's largest city would rise on this shore. He wrote of the incident in his journal: "Nothing but a trifling point in geography has been determined."

After surveying the coast of northwestern America and Alaska, Cook sailed south from the Bering Strait to the Sandwich Islands, where on the island of Hawaii he met his death on Feb. 14, 1779.The cantilevered platform of Resolution Park offers splendid views and several interesting and informative signs which tell the human and natural history of the area. There is very limited street parking near the park.

Alaska Experience Theatre and Earthquake Exhibit

2009-10-09T21:33:00.002-04:00

The Alaska Experience Theatre and Earthquake Exhibit are two different attractions in one location. Tickets may be purchased for either one individually, or you will save money by getting a combination ticket for both.

The Alaska Experience Theatre with planetarium seating and a 180-degree wraparound screen almost 3 stories high. A 40 minute film is show which features stunning vistas and wildlife, and made me wonder what it was doing there in a dark theatre when I should be out seeing those things in person.

The Earthquake Exhibit has several exhibits which tell the story of the Great Alaska Earthquake of 1964, and then you will be shown a film while sitting in seats that rumble and shake to simulate the effect of an earthquake. It was informative and fun.

Anchorage Museum of History and Art

2009-10-09T21:31:00.003-04:00

The Anchorage Museum of History and Art is Alaska's largest museum and anyone who finds themself in downtown Anchorage should experience it. This large world-class museum has a permanent collection of 19,500 objects and artifacts, and also hosts more than 20 special exhibitions a year. The museum opened its doors in 1968, to help celebrate the purchase of Alaska from Russia. In 1973 it became the first museum in Alaska to be accredited by the American Association of Museums, and the facility was greatly expanded in 1986.

The museum is also the repository for an archive of more than 350,000 historic photographs, and they are responsible for 276 municipal works of art valued at $5.8 million. There is a Museum Shop for souvenirs and gift items, and Marx Brothers Cafe, where I enjoyed an afternoon energy snack.

Burt-Stark Mansion, Abbeville, South Carolina, Deathbed of the Confederacy

2009-10-09T13:12:00.003-04:00

It was here in the Burt-Stark Mansion, also known as the Armistead Burt House, Abbeville, South Carolina, that President Jefferson Davis met with his cabinet for the last Council of War for the Confederate States of America, May 2, 1865.

Just three weeks earlier, on April 9, 1865 General Robert E. Lee had surrendered his Army of Northern Virginia to General George T. Sherman at Appomattox Courthouse. Many people regard Lee's surrender as the end of the War Between the States, but actually only a portion of the Confederate Army surrendered at that time.

On April 26, 1869, Confederate General Joseph E. Johnston followed Lee by surrendering his Army of Tennessee, also to General Sherman, near Greensboro, North Carolina. One of my great uncles, John Tomas Conn, was among those who surrendered with Johnston.

However, when the last Confederate Council of War met there were still other very determined Confederate armies fighting in the field, including the Alabama, Mississippi and East Louisiana Department, the Trans-Mississippi (Texas) Department, and others. President Davis wanted to continue the struggle for Southern Independence. However, despite the righteousness of the Confederate cause, the Council persuaded Davis that to continue fighting against such overwhelming odds was futile.

Just two days later, May 4, 1865, Confederate Lt. Gen. Richard Taylor, son of former U.S. president Zachary Taylor, surrendered the Confederate Department of Alabama, Mississippi, and East Louisiana, with some 12,000 troops.

The last land fight of the War occurred May 12--13 May at Palmito Ranch, Texas, where 350 Confederates of the Trans-Mississippi Department were victorious over 800 invading Federals. Afterwards, upon learning that Richmond had fallen that General Robert E. Lee had surrendered, the Trans-Mississippi Confederates gave up their fight for Independence Most of the soldiers simply went home, but some 2000 of them fled into Mexico, alone or in scattered groups.

Last of the Confederate Generals to surrender was Brigadier General Stand Waite of Oklahoma. Stand Waite was also a Chief of the Cherokee Nation. Fighting until the bitter end, General Waite finally surrendered his battalion of Creek, Seminole, Cherokee, and Osage Indians on June 23. 1865.

There was never a formal surrender by the Confederate States of America. No peace treaty or armistice was ever signed, and it could be argued that the Confederate States of America is still an occupied nation.

A week after that fateful last Council of War in Abbeville, President Davis and a large entourage traveling with him, was captured in Irwinsville, Georgia, by the Fourth Michigan Calvary during the early morning hours of May 10, 1865.

The Burt-Stark Mansion was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1992 because of its importance as the last meeting place of the leadership of the Confederate nation.

For more about the Confederacy see my blog: http://www.confederatedigest.com/

Alabama State Capitol Building

2009-10-06T22:26:00.007-04:00

One of the only state capitols designated a National Historic Landmark, the Alabama State Capitol in Montgomery is where Jefferson Davis took the oath of office as President of the Confederate States of America. It was also the scene of the Montgomery civil rights march which ended with Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. delivering a moving speech from the top of its steps.

The historic Senate and House of Representatives Chambers, the old Supreme Court Chambers and the original governor's office have all been restored to their Confederate-era appearance. Guided tours are available Mon. - Sat. Free Admission.

The above picture of the Capitol Building was taken in early December as the State Christmas Tree was being decorated - a 30-foot red cedar harvested in Choctaw County.Below is an interior shot I took on the same visit, looking up at the Rotunda.

In 1926 the newly formed Alabama Arts Commission retained Roderick MacKenzie, a Scottish-born artist living in Mobile, Alabama, to design a series of murals to be installed beneath the Capitol Dome. The work was completed in July of 1930. Today the murals are as interesting for reflecting the way in which Alabama history was depicted in the early 20th century as for their intrinsic artistic merit. The themes of the eight murals are as follows:

1. Hostile Meeting of Desoto, Spanish Explorer and Tuscaloosa Indian Chieftian - 1540.
2. French Establishing First White Colony in Alabama Under Iberville and Bienville, Mobile, 1702-1711.
3. Surrender of William Weatherford, Hostile Creek Leader, to General Andrew Jackson - 1814.
4. Pioneer Home-seekers Led into the Alabama Wilderness by Sam Dale - 1816.
5. Governor William Wyatt Bibb and Committee Drafting the First State Constitution at Huntsville, 1819.
6. Wealth and Leisure Produce the Golden Period of Antebellum Life in Alabama, 1840-1860.
7. Secession and the Confederacy, Inauguration of President Jefferson Davis, 1861.
8. Prosperity Follows the Development of Resources Agriculture, Commerce and Industry, 1874-1930.

Historic Court Square and Fountain - Montgomery's Old Slave Market

2009-10-06T21:57:00.005-04:00

This landmark in Montgomery, Alabama, was erected by the City Council in 1885 over one of the oldest city wells, known as "Big Basin." The fountain, made in Paris, France, is topped by a statue of Hebe, Goddess of Youth and Cupbearer to the Gods. Visitors have an excellent view of the Alabama State Capitol at the opposite end of Dexter Avenue, the heart of downtown Montgomery.

This square served as the local Slave Market through the mid-19th century. It is reminiscent of old slave markets in other American cities such as Charleston, Boston, Providence and New York City.

At these markes, slaves of all ages were auctioned, along with land and livestock, standing in line to be inspected. Public posters advertised sales and included gender, approximate age, first name (slaves didn't always have last names), skill, price, complexion and owner's name.

Virtually all people today agree that slavery was an unconscionable evil. Yet many are unaware that it was more than just a white-owner versus black-slave institution. A large number of free Negros owned slaves, in fact, in numbers disproportionate to their representation in society at large. For example, in New Orleans alone over 3,000 free Negros, 28% of the total in that city, owned slaves. Altogether, only 4.8 percent of southerners were slave owners, including both black and white.

The issue was complicated farther by the fact that it was not uncommon for slaves to have straight sandy hair, blue eyes and fair complexions. Some were of as little as 1/64th African decent - or 98.4% white.

You can learn much more at my website: http://www.confederatedigest.com/

Historic Dexter Alabama, Montgomery, Alabama

2009-10-06T21:46:00.004-04:00

The six block stretch of Dexter Avenue, leading from the State Capitol building, down toward the Alabama River, and ending at Court Square, is the heart of downtown Montgomery. Any visitor to the city would do well to walk these blocks. Numerous historical markers along the way point out significant buildings and the sites of important historical events.

Since the 1840s, historic processions passing along Dexter Avenue to the Capitol included:

Jefferson Davis Inagural, 2-18-1861

Gen. J. H. Wilson's Union Calvary Corps, 4-12-1865

167th Infantry Regt. Rainbow Division, 5-12-1919

Selma-Montgomery Civil Rights March, 3-25-1965

Stephen Takes a Stroll, 12-02-2004

The top photo in this post is looking down Dexter Avenue from the steps of the Alabama State Capitol. The bottom photo is looking up Dexter Avenue toward the Capitol.

Alabama Judicial Building

2009-10-06T21:43:00.001-04:00

This magnificent old building on Dexter Avenue, Montgomery, Alabama, is home of the Alabama Supreme Court, Courts of Criminal and Civil Appeals, the State Law Library and the Administrive Office of Courts. Visitors are invited to come and learn about history of the legal profession and judicial branch of government through exhibits which are on display.

In recent months this building drew national attention when the Alabama Supreme Court banned the display of the Ten Commandments here. Those same Ten Commandments are currently on tour around the country.

Hank Williams Statue

2009-10-06T21:39:00.002-04:00

This life size statue of Hank Williams, one of Montgomery, Alabama's favorite sons, is in Lister Hill Plaza. It is across the street from Montgomery City Auditorium, the site of many of the legendary country singer's performances. Following his tragic and untimely death on New Year's Day, 1953, Hank's funeral was also held at the City Autitorium.

Hank Williams Museum, Montgomery, Alabama

2009-10-06T21:36:00.004-04:00

This popular attraction, in an old downtown storefront, pays tribute to one of the most revered and loved country music writers and performers of all time. Hank Williams lived much of his adult life here in Montgomery, Alabama.

Many of his personal belongings are on display in this museum including the baby blue 1952 Cadillac in which Hank took his last ride. You can hear his music, watch the videos and learn about the man behind the legend.

Five minutes from the museum, in the Oakwood Cemetery, is the Hank Williams Memorial - the final resting place for Hank and his wife, Audrey.

Alabama Department of Archives and History

2009-10-06T21:33:00.004-04:00

It's a treat just to see this tremendous historic building, directly across the street and to the south of the Alabama State Capitol building in Montgomery. It is the oldest state-funded archives in the United States, constructed in 1940. Inside you will find an extensive collection of portraits, memorbilia, documents and artifacts. There are museum galleries and genealogical research facilities, exhibits on early Alabama Indians, military and 19th century galleries to explore. Children will enjoy hands-on play and learning in "Grandma's Attic."

Open Daily except Sundays and major holidays. Free admission.

Montgomery Civil Rights Memorial

2009-10-06T21:29:00.002-04:00

The Civil Rights Memorial, sponsored by the Southern Poverty Law Center in Montgomery, Alabama, is both sobering and inspiring. Water flows over a table which bears the names of those who died during the modern (1950s-1960s) civil rights movement, black and white alike. The wall behind the table is inscribed with an excerpt from the Old Testament Book of Amos, quoted in the historical speech by Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. "... Until justice rolls down like waters and righteousness like a mighty stream."

This touching tribute is a solemn reminder of the price we all pay for equality. It was designed by Maya Lin, who also is responsible for the Vietnam War Memorial in Washington, D.C.

There is no admission charge.

Montgomery's Historic Union Station

2009-10-06T21:26:00.003-04:00

Th historic Union Station in Montgomery, Alabama is the best spot from which to begin any tour of Montgomery, especially for first time visitors. The splendidly preserved train station is the centerpiece of the city's riverfront, and home to the Montgomery Area Visitor Center.

Completed in 1898, the three-story building and magnificent train shed reflect the way travel was conducted in the 19th and early 20th centuries. They offer a wide variety of services for visitors from informational videos of the region, museum-type exhibits, a gift shop and a professional staff that demonstrate what southern hospitality is all about.

Open daily; free admission.

Trolleys in the Alabama State Capital

2009-10-06T21:19:00.004-04:00

When I was in Montgomery, Alabama, the Lightning Route Trolleys offered shuttle service along two fixed routes in the Downtown area. These trolleys are replicas of the nation's first electric streetcar system that began in Montgomery in 1886. All-day passes could be purchased at the Montgomery Visitor Center in Union Station for only $1.00, or one way fares may be purchased from the driver for only 25 cents.

On the trolly which I rode the driver was very knowledgeable and obviously proud of his city. He gave us an excellent historic commentary along the entire route. This is the perfect way to tour downtown Montgomery, beginning at the Visitor Center, without the hassle of parking.

In 1886, America's very first electric street car system was inaugurated here on the streets of Montgomery. The authentic old electric streetcar, pictured below, can be seen behind the Union Depot in the train shed. Visitors can climb on board and view the rich wooden interior with long benches down each side. The conductor could operate the streetcar from either end, making it possible to change directions without turning the street car around.

Flames Grille, Montgomery, Alabama

2009-10-06T21:17:00.002-04:00

I was on a walking tour of downtown Montgomery, Alabama at lunch time and noticed that this place was packed with what appeared to be local folks. I went in and joined them.

Although the restaurant was busy, the service was fast and friendly. The menu for Flames Grille Cafe calls it "The Original Taste of the Past," and they do a good job of living up to that motto. I asked my server what was their #1lunch order and she said the "Flames Original Hamburger," so I had one along with the Gourmet Cheese and Bacon Fries. Yummy! It was a good choice.

Camellias in Alabama

2009-10-06T21:09:00.003-04:00

I found these beautiful pink camellias blooming in front of the Alabama State Capitol Building in Montgomery, Alabama in December.

The Camellia was named the official state flower of Alabama om 1959, and since 1999, it has been more specfically designated to be the variety Camellia japonica L, of the more than 240 subspecies that are known. The camellia replaced the goldenrod which served as Alabama's State Flower from 1927 - 1959.

A woody evergreen shrub and a member of the tea family, the camellia blooms from fall to early spring, and throughout the winter during periods of mild weather. The blossoms come in various shades and patterns of red, pink and white.

The camellia originated in the orient, but has found a perfect home in the climate of the deep southern United States.

Kalico Kitchen, Marion, Alabama

2009-10-06T21:04:00.002-04:00

One of the things I enjoy most about traveling the back roads of the United States is the discovery of local eateries such as the Kalico Kitchen in Marion, Alabama. Almost every small town has one - a place where businessmen in suits and ties, laborers in dirty overalls, the Lions Club and the Ladies Garden Club all come out for lunch. In fact, don't show up for dinner, because they close at 2:00 p.m. However, for breakfast and lunch the Kalico Kitchen can't be beat. I decided to stop when I saw the parking lot plum full of cadillacs, jalopies, and pick-up trucks.

The Kalico Kitchen is open 6 a.m. - 2 p.m. Tuesday - Sunday (Closed Monday). Judy Deason is the manager.

When I was there, for only $4.95 you could have the lunch buffet, which included pan fried chicken done right, plus a beef/potato casserole, collard greens, sweet potatoes, blackeyed peas, salad fixin's, cornbread, chocolate pudding and more. Don't forget the freshly brewed sweet iced tea for only $1.00, with all the free refills you can drink.

Lake Pontchatrain, Louisiana

2009-10-06T20:59:00.001-04:00

New Orleans sits just south of Lake Pontchatrain, a very large but shallow brackish lake - more of a tidal basin than a normal lake.

I still remember very well the summer when I was about 12 years old when my Dad took me and two of my brothers on a drive over the amazing Lake Pontchatrain Causeway. At almost 24 miles it is the longest overwater bridge in the world. Dad is the king of hype, and he had built us boys up to the a point of open-mouthed, wide-eyed wonder as we started across a lake so wide that we could not see one side from the other. We were almost hyperventilating with excitement as we drove several miles from the north shore before the southern shore came dimly into view. I felt it was like taking a bridge across the ocean.

When I saw Lake Pontchartrain again more recently - 50 years later - I viewed it with fond memories - and still a sense of wonder.

Sidewalk Art at Jackson Square

2009-10-06T20:57:00.001-04:00

On the broad sidewalks around Jackson Square in New Orleans, Louisiana, we saw several sidewalk artists displaying and selling their artwork. To me, such art bought directly from the artist is one of the best souvenirs of a place one can get.

Okay, I'll be honest and say that we did not buy any art on this trip. I didn't have an easy way to get it home. But the walls of our home are loaded with art - both original and prints - which I have bought from sidewalk artists in many different countries of the world.

Support small time artists. Cut on the middle man. Give yourself a treat. Preserve a memory. You do all of this and more when you make a purchase from a sidewalk artist.

Creole Delicacies in New Orleans

2009-10-06T20:51:00.003-04:00

The quaint little Creole Delicacies shop on Jackson Square in New Orleans, Louisiana, is a great place to buy gifts, souvenirs, culinary items and New Orleans' famous and delicious pralines. We got a refrigerator magnet, postcards, and a box of pralines here. The pralines, a deep south delicacy made of pecans, brown sugar and other good stuff, didn't make it even as far as the New Orleans city limits before they were all consumed.

I well remember my very first praline which I had in New Orleans as a young teenager on a trip with my dad and brothers. I thought it was the best thing I had ever eaten up until that point in my life. And they are still very good. However, according to my own subjective assessment, the pralines on River Street in Savannah, Georgia and those at the Old Market in downtown Charleston, South Carolina are the best. Still, if you happen to be in New Orleans, the pralines here are excellent.

Grave of a Voodoo Queen

2009-10-06T20:45:00.002-04:00

Most locals in New Orleans can point the way to the Grave of Marie Laveau in St. Louis Cemetery #1. Marie was the notorious "Voodoo Queen" of a mystic cult. Superstition says that visitors who scratch XXX on the concrete Greek Revival crypt will not be bothered by the evil spirits which reside therein. X's were already all over the tomb, so Karen and I left our own.Voodoo is a primitive religion of African origin. It was brought to the Americas by slaves and came to New Orleans via Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic.

Voodoism flourised in New Orleans during the 19th century and still remains to some extent today. Marie Laveau was the most widely known of many practitioners of the cult. Actually there were two Voodoo Queens named Marie Laveau, mother and daughter. They epitomized the sensational appeal of Voodooism in New Orleans during the 19th and 20th centuries. They taught and used the religion’s magical powers to control one’s lovers, acquaintances, enemies, and sex.

Mardi Gras in New Orleans

2009-10-06T20:43:00.002-04:00

Among many other claims to fame, New Orleans is world renowned for its lavish and decadent Mardi Gras celebration. It just happens that our recent visit to New Orleans coincided with this annual event. Neither Karen nor I enjoy crowds and we are not party animals so we weren't too disappointed that our short visit did not allow us to take part in many of the festivities.

One of the traditions of Mardi Gras in New Orleans is women flashing their breasts - which I probably would have enjoyed more than Karen. We missed the bare breasts - however we did see signs of Mardi Gras everywhere - including this tomb which was all decked out for the celebration.

Winnsboro, Franklin Parish, Louisiana

2009-10-06T20:35:00.002-04:00

Franklin Parish formed in northern Louisiana in 1839 and named for Benjamin Franklin. The parish seat is Winnsboro with about 5,150 residents. The entire county has a population of around 21,000. The Franklin Parish Courthouse, pictured above, sits on Main Street (Hwy. 17) was constructed in 1951 on the site of a former bear hunting camp.

Madison Parish Confederate Monument, Talullah, Louisiana

2009-10-06T16:30:00.004-04:00

This Confederate Monument, on the Madison Parish Courthouse lawn, Tallulah, Louisiana, stands as a memorial to the brave men who fought to defend their homeland against northern invaders during what they called the War for Southern Independence.

Tallulah saw action during the Vicksburg Campaign. Two of my many kinfolk who were Confederate soldiers (uncles from Alabama) fought in that campaign. One was killed and the other was captured. My uncles, like the overwhelming majority of Confederate soldiers, were poor dirt farmers who owned neither slave nor plantaion. they fought for the principles of the Declaration of Independenc and the Constitiution and to defend themselves against an out-of-control federal government.

The inscription on this monument reads very simply:

In Memory Of Our

Confederate Soldiers

Of Madison Parish La

Who Enlisted and

Served During The

War Between The States

1861-1865

Tallulah, Madison Parish, Louisiana

2009-10-06T15:41:00.007-04:00

There are only two places on earth named Tallulah, the beautiful Tallulah Falls and Gorge in the mountains of north Georgia, and this small town in Louisiana. Tallulah, Louisiana has a population of just over 8,000 people and serves as the seat of Madison Parish. It is located in the northeastern portion of the state, about 24 miles west of Vicksburg, Mississippi.

The Madison Parish Courthouse, pictured above, is located in the heart of downtown Tallulah and also in the center of Madison Parish. It sits at the junction of US 80 and US 65.The white columned building was built on the Colonial Revival Style in 1925. It was placed on the National Register of Historical Places in 1989, due to it's historic significance in both architecture and engineering. It is not a tourist attraction but is the functioning seat of government for Madison Parish. However, visitors are welcome to visit the facility.

Tallulah was founded as a town in the sovereign state of Louisiana in 1857. Five years later it was an important telegraph and railroad station on the Vicksburg, Shreveport, and Texas Railroad. That's when the people of the fledgling city found themselves facing the brunt of an aggressive and northern army which was bent on forever changing the structure of "these" United States, turning the several sovereign states into a single empire called "The" United States of America.

A historical marker on the Madison Parish courthouse lawn bears witness to the fateful day, August 18, 1962 when Lincoln's invading Federal troops, under Col. W. D. Bowen, destroyed the depot, telegraph office, and several railroad cars. The depot contained a large amount of sugar and supplies for the Confederate Army. When I read the historical marker (above), I took note of the fact that this was many months before Lincoln's Emancipation Proclamation, which did not actually free a single slave but was what Lincoln called a "war measure."

Slavery was not the cause of the war and did not become a major issue in the War Between the States until the Lincoln began to seek a justification for his illegal, brutal, and conscienceless attack on the Southern states.

Andrew Jackson Statue in Jackson Square

2009-10-06T15:31:00.003-04:00

The centerpiece of Jackson Square, New Orleans, Louisiana, is a statue of General Andrew Jackson, mounted on a rearing horse. Jackson is a Tennessean (originally from North Carolina) who became a national hero after decisively defeating the British at the Battle of New Orleans during the War of 1812. He went on to become the seventh president of the United States.

Andrew Jackson is not to be confused with Confederate General Stonewall Jackson who won fame years later during the War Between the States.

It was during the War of 1812 that Jackson earned his nickname of "Old Hickory." He had been ordered to march his Tennessee troops to Natchez, Mississippi. Upon arrival, Jackson was told to disband his men because they were unneeded. He refused to disband the men and marched them back to up the Natchez Trace to Tennessee.

Because of his strict discipline during this march Jackson's men began to say he was as tough as hickory and the nickname stuck. I have mixed feeling about Andrew Jackson. He was a leader who had many admirable qualities and was known for his common touch. Yet, as president, he was also instrumental in the "Indian Removal" which resulted in the infamous "Trail of Tears," one of the most shameful episodes in American history.

Historians say he was a "man of his times." Those times are difficult for those of us who live in a more tolerant age to comprehend.

Oak Alley Plantation

2009-10-06T15:02:00.001-04:00

Lousiana is noted for it's antebellum plantation homes, and among them none is more picturesque or ideally situated than Oak Alley, "Grand Dame of the River Road." It sits on the banks of the Mississippi River on the Great River Road, about half way between New Orleans and Baton Rouge.

One thing that sets this particular home apart is that it is framed with a quarter-mile driveway lined with magnificent live oaks, thought to be 300 years old. The canopy of evergreen trees make a magnificent avenue leading from the Mississippi River to the Greek-revival plantation house. It was built in 1839 by a wealthy French Creole sugar planter, and is today owned and operated by the private Oak Alley Foundation.

Oak Alley is the most photographed of all Louisiana plantations, and has been featured in numerous movies as well as print and television commercials. A tour here offers a fascinating glimpse into a lifestyle and an era in the history of America's deep south that is now "Gone with the Wind."

There is a gift shop at the plantation and a restaurant which serves breakfast and lunch daily. Four cottages on the grounds serve as a Bed-and-breakfast Inn, offering respite from the three Ts of modern living: television, telephones and traffic.

Abbie Gardner Monument

2009-10-06T14:44:00.008-04:00

Located just north of the town of Redfield, Spink County, South Dakota, this monument reads: "Abbie Gardner was delivered to her rescuers on May 30, 1857, after eighty three days of captivity among the Sioux Indians following the Spirit Lake Massacre in Iowa." The tablet was placed by the Charlotte Warrington Turner Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution.

The Gardner family came to Lake Okoboji in July 1856 from New York. Because it was too late in the season to plant and harvest crops, the family brought enough food to last the winter months. They managed to build one cabin by winter, but weather prevented them from finishing a second. At the time of the massacre, Rowland Gardner, his wife, a son, two daughters, a son-in-law, and two grandchildren occupied the Gardner Cabin. A third daughter was in Springfield, Minnesota, at the time of the massacre.

By late winter in 1856, both the settlers and Dakota leader Inkpaduta's people were running out of supplies. Tensions ran high as Inkpaduta's people tried unsuccessfully to get food from the settlers. Finally, on March 8, anger turned into violence. Over several days, Inkpaduta's band killed 33 settlers and abducted four women, including Abbie Gardner. No one recorded the Dakota's losses. After the Okoboji attack, Inkpaduta's band travelled north, unsuccessfully attacked Springfield, Minnesota, settlers, and then fled west to the Dakotas where they killed two of the four captives. Later that spring, Inkpaduta released Abbie and another Okoboji captive after ransom was paid by Indian Agents from Minnesota.

After her release, Abbie Gardner joined her sister in Hampton, Iowa. In August 1857, she married Cassville Sharp. They raised two children before separating sometime in the 1880s.

Returning to Arnolds Park in 1891, Abbie purchased the cabin, operating it as one of Iowa's first tourist attractions until her death in 1921. For a quarter, or ten cents for children, visitors could see the displays in her log cabin museum and listen to her stories of the Spirit Lake Massacre, her captivity, and rescue. In her later years Abbie forgave the Native Americans and even developed a lifelong interest and admiration for Native-American culture. She collected many examples of Native-American artifacts which she displayed in her museum located in the log cabin. She collected pipestone from southwestern Minnesota and brought it back to Arnolds Park where she commissioned her neighbors to carve miniature replicas of the Spirit Lake Monument (dedicated in 1895). She sold these replicas as souvenirs in her museum shop. As part of her tourist business, Abbie Gardner-Sharp sold her book, The Spirit Lake Massacre, postcards, and other souvenirs.

Abbie died in Colfax, Iowa, in 1921.

Photos by J. Stephen Conn. Information source, http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GRid=14621814

Clark, South Dakota Veterans Monument

2009-10-05T20:39:00.004-04:00

This monumnet in Clark, South Dakota honors veterans from Clark County who fought for American expansion in wars from the War of the Rebellion (1861-1865) to present. Plaques on all sides of the monument give tribute to Clark County citizens who have fought in America's wars.

I found the plaque to the War of the Rebellion, pictured below, to be particularly revealing. This small county in what was then the Dakota Territory, sent a very large number of soldiers to the "War to prevent Southern Independence." This was a full quarter-century before South Dakota was granted statehood in 1889. It was also during the same time of the Indian Wars in which the United States systematically slaughtered the Plains Indians, breaking treaty after treaty, in order to steal their land and their gold.

Actually, these two wars were both parts of the United States' much larger, campaign of conquest, which also included the Mexican-American War, the Spanish-American War, and others. President Ulysses S. Grant acknowledged as much when he said, "The Southern rebellion was largely the outgrowth of the Mexican war."
Spurred by the zealous but misguided notion of Manifest Destiny, and through relentless decades of wars and atrocities, the United States evolved from a confederation of sovereign, independent states into a world-wide empire with an all powerful centralized government.

Doland, South Dakota - Home of Hubert H. Humphrey

2009-10-05T19:52:00.004-04:00

Doland is the county seat of Spink County, South Dakota. Humphrey Drive, pictured here, is the main business district of the small town and is named for Hubert H. Humphrey who grew up here.

Humphrey graduated from Doland High School. He later went on to become mayor of Minneapolis, Minnesota, a United States Senator from Minnesota and Vice President of the United States. He was the 1968 Democratic nominee for President of the United States.

White Woman of the Genesee

2009-04-16T13:11:00.002-04:00

This fascinating monument is found in Letchworth State Park, near the small town of Castile in upstate New York.

Mary Jamison, the White Woman of the Genesee, was captured by Indians from her Pennsylvania home at the young age of fifteen and brought to the Genesee Valley. Here, she married, raised her children and lived peacefully to the age of 90 amongst her adopted Seneca Nation people. Her cabin on the Grandeau Flats, just North of the falls was her home for many years.

Inscription:
To theMemory of MARY JEMISON,Whose home during more thanseventy years of a life of strange vicissitude was among the Senecasupon the banks of this river;and whose history,inseparably connected with that of this valleyhas caused her to be known as"The White Woman of the Genesee."

4,000 Miles and 90 Counties Across Texas

2009-04-16T12:22:00.002-04:00

During two weeks in late February and early March, 2009, I put more than four thousand miles on this car, rented at the Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas airport. On that trip, which took me on a very zig-zag route around the state, I completed visiting my final 90 of the 254 counties in the Lone Star State, and also completed several counties in Oklahoma.

I've heard other county counters brag about collecting 20 or more counties a day in wide open areas like this. I got 8 or 9 counties a day, going from dawn to dusk, but stopping often along the way. Still, I felt like I was cheating myself my rushing through so many places without seeing all they have to offer. To me, there are only two kinds of places on earth, those I have never visited, and those I have visited but hope to return to someday to explore more thoroughly.

Here I have stopped to take a few pictures at the Glasscock/Reagan county line on Texas Ranch Road 33.

With 254 counties, Texas has by far the largest number of counties of any state in the United States. The second highest number is 159 counties in Georgia. Tiny Delaware has the smallest number of counties with only three. The average state is subdivided into 66 counties.

La Paz County, Arizona

2009-04-03T14:18:00.002-04:00

This dramatic view is the first glimpse I had of La Paz County, Arizona, March 28, 2009. It was my final Arizona county, and the 2,916th county overall, in my quest to visit each of the 3,142 counties or their equivilents in the United States. The view is from Mohave County, looking across Bill Williams River into La Paz County, along Arizona Highway 95, near Parker Dam.

La Paz County is one of the newest counties in the United States. It was established in 1983, being formed from the northern half of Yuma County. La Paz is the first and only new county created in Arizona since the territory gained statehood in 1912. Soon after the formation of La Paz County, Arizona laws were changed to make splitting other existing counties much more difficult.

I had first visited Yuna County way back in 1968, while living in Albuquerque, New Mexico, but I had not been in the part of the county that broke off to be come La Paz. The county is named for an old settlement - now a ghost town - along the Colorado River. Parker, Arizona, just across the Colorado River from California, is the county seat.

Visiting 100 Counties in North Carolina

2009-02-27T10:08:00.002-05:00

When I entered Stokes County, North Carolina on February 5, 2009 it marked the completion of my visits to each one of the 100 counties in North Carolina - made during countless trips over more than 50 years of traveling throughout the Tarheel State. With this, I have now visited every county in 28 of the United States, and more than 89% of the total counties in all fifty states. Stokes County was #2,898 in my quest to visit each of the 3,141 counties or county equivilents in the United States at least once in my lifetime.

This sign sits beside the driveway of a private residence. It is on old U.S. Hwy. 52, between Rural Hall and King, North Carolina.

Burger King, La Crosse, Wisconsin

2009-02-11T12:23:00.003-05:00

Burger King began in Miami, Florida, and the corporate headquarters is there today, but it is truly an international chain with restaurants in many parts of the world. In fact, for a few years the company was owned by a British conglomerate.

Fast food eaters everywhere owe a debt of gratitude to Burger King, even if they don't know it. At one time the fast food giants served burgers only one way - their way - and you could take it or leave it. Then Burger King began advertising that at their restaurants you could "Have it your way." Other fast food franchises had to change in order to compete, and now virtually all of them allow special orders.

For a short period of time in my life I was the store manager of a Burger King restaurant. Let me tell you now, it's HARD work. The corporate office says in their jingle that "Special ordrers don't upset us." But when the line is out the door, and three of your kitchen help don't show up for work, and the rest of your staff speak four different languages, and the soda machine starts spewing like Old Faithful, and you run out of cheeze, and the cash register goes haywire, and the bread man delivers the wrong kind of buns, and the toilet in the men's room overflows, and the lady from the health department shows up wearing a stern expression and a complaint in her hand - all at the same time - special orders can sure confuse the hell out of us.

Ever since working at a Burger King, I have been MUCH more patient and appreciative of the value and good food they offer. If you only knew of what sometimes goes on behind the scenes at a Burger King you would realize that every time you get your order delivered fresh and correctly it's a small miracle- and they do it thousands of times a day.

Burger King, like most all the other burger joints, has an ever changing menu, with new feature items being offered every few weeks. However, day in and day out, their signature sandwich, the Whopper, is my favorite fast food burger. Add cheeze and bacon and it's even better.

Confederate Monument Erected by a Methodist Church

2009-01-30T09:51:00.008-05:00

This white marble monument stands in the median strip of Green Street, in front of St. James United Methodist Church, Augusta, Georgia. The monument was erected by the "Sabbath School" of the St. James church in memory of local men who had lost their lives while defending their homeland from Northern invaders during the War Between the States.

The St. James Church, founded in 1854, was only seven years old when Lincoln's Union troops marched against the South. Twenty-four members of the church lost their lives during the ensuing "War for Southern Independence." Inscriptions on three sides of the monument list the names 285 Augustans, including the St. James members, who were killed in the war.

The cenotaph was unveiled on December 31, 1873. This was five years before the much larger Richmond County Confederate Monument was unveiled a few blocks away on Broad Street, in the center of Augusta. The primary inscription on the St. James monument reads:

THESE MEN DIED

IN DEFENSE OF

THE PRINCIPLES

OF THE

DECLARATION OF

INDEPENDENCE

Catholic Church of the Most Holy Trinity, Augusta, Georgia

2009-01-30T09:10:00.002-05:00

The Catholic Church of the Most Holy Trinity, on Green Street in downtown Augusta, Georgia, was constructed from 1857-1863. It is one of the oldest Catholic church buildings in Georgia.

The edifice was designed by J.R. Niernsee, who was also the architect of the South Carolina State Capitol in Columbia, South Carolina. The original church building, constructed in 1814, served as the Sisters of Mercy hospital and orphanage during the Yellow Fever epidemics of 1839 and 1854. It was again pressed into service as a hospital during the War for Southern Independence (1861-1865).

Father Abram Ryan (1838-1886), the "Poet-priest of the Confederacy," was pastor of the church during the WarBetween the States. He also founded and served as editor of The Banner of the South, a religious and political Catholic weekly.

The Haunted Pillar of Augusta, Georgia

2009-01-29T21:04:00.006-05:00

This "haunted" pillar stands on Broad Street, Augusta, Georgia, at the site of the The Lower Market, once the center of the agricultural and livestock trade for the city. The original structure was destroyed by fire in 1829. The city rebuilt the market and topped it with a bell that could be heard throughout the city of Augusta.

In 1871, the newer market was destroyed by a cyclone. All that remained was this column which stands still today at the corner of Fifth and Broad Streets.

For more than a century, local folks have told and retold the story of an itinerant preacher who, upon being denied the right to preach in front of the market, prophesied that a great wind would destroy the place except for one pillar. The traveling "exorter" proclaimed that whoever tried to remove this remaining pillar would be struck dead. Many people swear that the prophecy has come to pass on more than one occasion.

The young lady in the photo works in a business next to the pillar. As I was photographing it we chatted a while. She told me that at least three people had died while trying to move the pillar. She agreed to pose for this photo, pretending she was trying to push the pillar over, but being very careful not to push too hard.

Confederate Monument, Augusta, Georgia

2009-01-29T16:25:00.006-05:00

Standing in a park in the middle of the 700 block of Broad Street, Augusta, Georgia, the Richmond County Confederate Monument soars seventy-six feet tall. It has a granite base topped by a shaft of pure Italian marble. The monument was commissioned by the Ladies Memorial Association of Augusta in 1875 at the cost of $17,331.35 – a princely sum at that time.

Around the base of the monument are the life size statues of four Southern generals in the War Between the States: Thomas R. R. Cobb, Thomas J. “Stonewall” Jackson, Robert E. Lee, and William Henry Talbot. A Confederate private is depicted at the top of the shaft. The model for this statue was Private Berry Benson of Augusta. An inscription at the base reads, “In honor of the men of Richmond County who died in the cause of the Confederate States.” A crowd of ten thousand people turned out for the dedication of the monument on October 32, 1878. On one side of the monument is this inscription:

-
IN MEMORIAM
"No nation rose so white
and fair
and none fell so pure of crime."
-

The inscription on the other side is even more eloquent:

WORTHY

to have lived and known

our Gratitude:

WORTHY

To be hallowed and held

in tender remembrance

WORTHY

the fadeless fame which

CONFEDERATE SOLDIERS

WON,

who gave themselves in life

and Death for us:

for the Rights of the States,

for the Liberties of the People,

for the Sentiments of the South,

for the Principles of the Union

as these were handed down to

them by the fathers of

OUR COMMON COUNTRY

Richard Henry Wilde Monument

2009-01-29T14:33:00.001-05:00

Greene Street, Augusta, Georgia

Richard Henry Wilde, born in Dublin, Ireland in 1789, came to Augusta Georgia as a child. He grew up in Augusa to become an an attorney and later attorney-general of Georgia. He also served in the United States Congress where he spoke out in opposition to the Force bill and to the removal of the deposits from the United States bank, and those on the tariff and the currency.

His opposition to President Andrew Jackson led to his defeat, after which he moved for a while to Europe and engaged himself in scholarly pursuits. After returning to America he was a member of the Whig state convention at Milledgeville, Georgia, in 1842.

In 1843 he left politics for good and moved to New Orleans, where he became a professor of constitutional law at the University of Louisiana. He filled that post until his death from yellow fever in 1847.
In addition to his careers in politics and education, Wildes was also a poet. Today he is best remembered as the author of a verse which was later set to music by Stephen Foster and published in 1860. It became a wildly popular song during the era of the War Between the States. Titled, "None Shall Weep a Tear for Me," the first four lines of the verse are on the front of the Wilde Monument:

"My life is like a summer rose,

That opens to the morning sky,

But ere the shades of evening pose,

Is scattered on the ground to die."

James Ryder Randall Statue, Augusta, Georgia

2009-01-28T13:20:00.005-05:00

This statue is on Greene Street, Augusta, Georgia.

Front Inscription:

JAMES RYDER RANDALL1839 - 1908

Better the fire upon thee roll,

Better the blade, the shot, the bowl,

Than crucifixion of the soul,

Maryland, my Maryland

Back Inscription:

Erected by the

Randall Memorial Committee

of Chapter "A"

United Daughters

of the Confederacy

Augusta Georgia

May 28, 1936

James Ryder Randall, called the "Poet Laureate of the Lost Cause," is best known for writing the poem "Maryland, My Maryland," The poem was set to music by Jennie Cary, a member of a prominent Maryland and Virginia family. It became a war hymn of the Confederacy during the War Between the States. Today, "Maryland, my Maryland " is the state song of Maryland.

Although Maryland remained loyal to the Union during the War Between the States, it was only because Abraham Lincoln illegally arrested and imprisoned many members of the Maryland legislature before they could vote on secession. State Representatives and Senators from Maryland remained incarcerated throughout the duration of the war, without charges or trial. Maryland was occupied by invading Union troops and was under the military dictatorship of Abraham Lincoln during the war.

Among the state legislatures who were imprisoned was Francis Key Howard, a grandson of Francis Scott Key, author of the "Star Spangled Banner," America's national anthem. While imprisoned, Francis Key Howard wrote a book about his ordeal "to show how men who were guiltless were treated in this age, and in this country"

A Historical Sign that Changed my Life

2009-01-27T21:30:00.003-05:00

This simple interpretative sign at Tannehill Historical State Park was a catalyst that made a deep and lasting impact on my life. When I first read it in December, 2004, I would never have imagined the quest for knowledge on which it would lead me.

I had read countless other such signs during my travels, but for some unknown reason this one particular one on that particular day resonated deeply with me - especially the simple description of actions taken by Union troops from Iowa who were here during the latter days of the War Between the States:

"... they torched all the adjacent factory buildings, slave cabins, a large gristmill and tannery and a storehouse for food and supplies. In the fire Tannehill’s workforce of over 500 slaves and white mechanics were scattered and displaced."

Whoa, I thought! The Yankees burned the slave cabins along with those of the white workers? Hundreds of people were left with no shelter, no food, and nowhere to go?

Although I grew up in the South, all my life I had been told that the Union troops marched south to free the slaves. If that were so, then why did the Northerners burn the slaves out, leaving them destitute, homeless and hungry. Elsewhere on the grounds of the Tannehill Historical State Park I saw a large patch of woods, marked as the site of scores of slave cabins which the Yankees had ransacked, plundered and then destroyed - cabins that would have been equal to those my own Irish and Cherokee ancestors lived in during the same era in Alabama and Georgia.

I began to make the connection to other discoveries I had made during my travels, such as a monument to black Confederate soldiers in Mississippi and an antebellum plantation in Louisiana owned by a black family who were slaveholders. I had dismissed these things as flukes, but now I saw there was a patteren which contradicted most of what I had always assumed I knew about the War Between the States.

It occurred to me that somebody was lying about what really happened during the so called Civil War, and I determined to find out the truth.

Since that fateful day I have spent thousands of hours studying about the Confederacy, the causes of secession, and the War Between the States. As I have read scores of books, I have continued to visit hundreds of historical sites, now looking for clues to the real story, unvarnished by political correctness. To say that the things I have learned have been an eyeopener is an understatement.

Okay, I don't have room to get up on my soapbox and tell it all here in this description. Much more time and space would be required to do that. Some of the things I am learning can be found on descriptions of other travel photos I have put up here on Flicker. I am now also now recording many of my discoveries on a blog. I hope you'll check it out: http://ConfederateDigest.com.